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Dishwasher Error Codes: Every Brand, Every Code Explained

All brands Dishwasher display showing ALL CODES — FixCode Guide error code graphic

Every dishwasher supervises the same short story — water coming in, water washing, water heating, water leaving, and no water anywhere it should not be — but each brand tells that story in its own dialect: Bosch and Miele in letter-and-number fault codes, Samsung and LG in two-letter display codes, GE in a split language of plain-language displays on newer models and stored service codes underneath, and Frigidaire in its i-series and status-window codes. This page is the index: how the dialects divide, the drain, fill, leak and heating faults every brand shares, and the six full brand lists we publish — Bosch, Samsung, GE, Frigidaire, LG and Miele — each built from that maker's own documentation.

Safety first. A dishwasher fault is a water fault inside a cabinet that also carries mains electricity, so the order of operations matters. If a code reports a leak or water in the base (Bosch E15, Samsung LC, LG AE, Miele F70, a GE leak alert), turn off the water supply first, then the power, and do not keep restarting the machine to see if it clears — every restart runs the pumps against a leak that is still there. Switch the breaker off before pulling the machine out, reaching under it, or removing any panel, and never bypass a float switch, flood sensor or door switch to make a code go away: those devices are the reason a leak becomes a code instead of a ruined floor.

How dishwasher codes work: one wash cycle, five supervised acts

A dishwasher cycle is five acts, and every brand's code list is organised by them even when the brands never say so. Act one is filling: the control opens the inlet valve and then proves, by level, flow or time, that water actually arrived — which is why fill codes (LG IE, Samsung 4C/4E, Miele F12/F13, Bosch's water-tap display) cluster at the start of a programme. Act two is washing: the circulation pump pushes water through the spray arms while a diverter or slide shutter directs it between levels, and pump and diverter codes (LG LE and nE, Miele F67/F69 and its slide-shutter family, Bosch's heat-pump codes) belong here. Act three is heating: the heater raises the water to temperature under a sensor's supervision, producing the heater and temperature-sensor families (LG HE and tE, Samsung HC/HE, Miele F01/F02/F24/F25/F26, Bosch E09/E11). Act four is draining, supervised as strictly as filling (LG OE, Samsung 5C/5E, Miele F11, Bosch E24/E25, Frigidaire i20). Act five runs underneath all the others: leak supervision, watching the base of the machine for water that escaped the tub entirely.

That structure is the fastest way to read a code you have never seen. Before you look up the letters, ask which act the machine was in when it stopped: a code that arrives two minutes after Start is a fill or door story; a code at the end of a cycle with water standing in the tub is a drain story; a code with dry dishes and a cold tub is a heating story; a code with water under the machine is a leak story whatever the letters say. The act narrows the brand table to one family, and the family — not the exact digits — is what decides your first checks, because the digits are not portable. OE is draining on an LG and means nothing on a Samsung; E24 is draining on a Bosch and is not a Samsung dishwasher code at all on this site's verified Samsung list; F11 is draining on a Miele and a different machine's code everywhere else. Read the act first, the brand's own table second, and a stranger's chart never.

Displays, status windows and stored codes: where each brand hides its list

The six brands on this page report through three different windows, and knowing your window matters as much as knowing your code. The first window is the programme display itself: LG and Samsung print their two-letter codes there for the owner, Bosch prints its E-codes there on display models, and Miele shows its F-numbers in the time display — on Miele models without a full display, the same faults arrive as flashing programme indicator lights, with F78 (circulation pump fault) the documented example in Miele's operating instructions. The second window is the status display that is not a code list at all: Frigidaire's status window mixes genuine fault codes (the i-series) with plain instructions and states — close the door, rinse aid low, water heating, controls locked — and GE's newer models do the same in words, showing H2O for a fill problem and FTD for a failure to drain instead of numbers.

The third window is hidden: the stored service code. GE is the clearest case — behind its plain-language consumer displays sits a long stored fault list (the F-numbered service codes a technician reads in service mode), and the two GE dialects are not translations of each other. Miele keeps a fault memory too: its codes stay stored for a technician to read even after the display clears, and its salt-lid fault F86 exists in the memory alongside a plain 'close the salt reservoir cap' message on the display. Bosch likewise stores its last errors for the customer-service test programme. The practical lesson is that a code which vanishes when you cancel is not necessarily a fault that vanished: on the stored-code brands, the machine has kept the evidence, and a code that returns at the same act of the cycle after an honest reset is a standing fault with a name, ready to quote to a technician along with the model number.

Not every display is a fault: locks, levels and cycle states

Every brand's display vocabulary includes messages that look like faults and are not, and misreading one wastes more owner time than any real code. Lock states lead the list: LG's CL and GE's LOC both simply report that the control lock is on, and Frigidaire's loc says the same in its status window — the machine is not broken, it is locked, and each brand documents the button hold that releases it. Level and setting states come next: LG's L0 to L4 displays are the rinse-aid level setting, its P1 to P4 displays are a selected Download cycle, its n:#, U:#, d:# and t# displays mean test mode is selected, and a lone F on an older LG means the sensor is measuring water clarity. LG's Cd is a Cool-dry cycle still running after the course finished, and its PF is the machine reporting that power failed and returned — a notice, not a malfunction, that clears when any button is pressed.

The heating and waiting states fool people the other way: Frigidaire's HO (Hd on older models) means the cycle is paused while the water heats — washing resumes by itself — and its LO means the rinse-aid dispenser is low, a refill reminder that rides through several cycles. Miele's F00 is the mirror image, a service read-out that means no fault is registered at all. The discipline that separates these from real faults is consequence: a state display leaves a machine that works normally once you answer it (unlock, refill, wait, press a button), while a fault code stops the cycle at the same act every time and returns after a reset. If the display goes away and the wash completes, you were reading a state; if the machine stops in the same place on the next cycle, you are reading a fault, and the brand tables below are where it belongs.

Bosch dishwasher error codes

Bosch reports in E-numbers (shown as E:xx on some displays, with F-prefixed twins for the commonest faults — F15 is E15, F24 is E24) organised by the system monitored: heat-pump and control faults in the low numbers, water in and out in the teens and twenties, plus symbol displays such as the water-tap 'check water supply' indicator that carry no number at all. Bosch's list is the most component-literate of the six — separate codes for the heat pump's heater, the NTC sensor, the flow meter and the diverter circuit — and its leak code E15 is the one owners meet most: the safety switch has found water in the base and the machine will not wash again until the leak is found. Bosch codes are shared across the Bosch/Siemens/Thermador platform family, but the exact list is per series, so the model's own chart outranks any general table.

CodeMeaning
E01Heat pump motor circuit fault at the main control board — Bosch's own published definition of E01 on its dishwasher error-code lists, with exactly one published owner remedy: reset power at the breaker for 30 seconds, and if the code is not resolved, contact Bosch Customer Support.
E07Drying fan / Zeolith drying fault on equipped Bosch models (the fan in the drying system is faulty) — model-specific member of the E0x block.
E09Heating circuit error — the dishwasher's heater is not working (heat pump/heater fault).
E15Water in the base / leak protection active — the AquaStop safety system has detected water in the base tray and shut the water supply off.
E02Main control board relay fault.
E03Main control board relay fault.
E04Power module failure, grouped with E01 to E05 in Bosch manuals.
E05Wash arm diverter circuit fault in the main control board.

Full list: Bosch Dishwasher Error Codes List — every verified Bosch code with causes and first fixes.

Samsung dishwasher error codes

Samsung reports in short display codes — digits with C (4C fill, 5C drain, 3C pump operation, 9C/OC level family), two-letter codes (LC leak, LE leakage on the older spelling, HE/HC heating, tE temperature sensing, AC/CA/CE board communication, bE button checks) and, on models without a display, blinking-light patterns that Samsung Canada's own guide decodes (a Normal-blinking pattern for leak or reflector trouble, Quick blinking for water pressure or temperature, Quick-plus for a drain failure). Samsung re-spells codes between generations — 4E is the older fill display, 5E/SE the older drain spellings, LC the newer leak spelling — so the same fault can wear two labels inside one brand, and Samsung's own support pages group them together. Quote the code exactly as your display spells it, then read it in Samsung's grouping.

CodeMeaning
3CWash motor (circulation pump) error — the main wash pump is not running correctly.
4CWater supply error — the dishwasher is not filling (or filling too slowly).
5CDrain error — the dishwasher did not drain in the allowed time.
7CWater-level / wash-system error on WaterWall models — the WaterWall reflector (vane) movement is not being confirmed.
1CLow-water level check (fold 'C1' is this code transposed)
1EClogged filter error on WaterWall models; low water level error in DW80 manuals (fold 'E1' is this code transposed)
3EHigh temperature water supply error on Samsung support pages; communication error (3E1 to 3E5, grouped with AE and bE3) in DW80 WaterWall manuals
4EWater supply error (older display of the 4C water supply check)

Full list: Samsung Dishwasher Error Codes List — every verified Samsung code with causes and first fixes.

GE dishwasher error codes

GE speaks two dialects that are not translations of each other. The consumer dialect, on newer models, uses plain language: H2O when water is not entering, FTD ('failure to drain') when the tub will not empty, LEAK DETECTED on leak-sensing models, CUP OPEN for a detergent cup that did not latch, and number-plus-H Delay Start displays (1H, 2H) that are settings, not faults. The service dialect is the stored list behind it — C-codes for the drain/fill timing family on electronic models (C1 to C8) and a long F-numbered service list (pressure sensing, turbidity, thermistor, heater, pumps and control faults) that a technician reads in service mode. GE also sells the same platforms as Profile, Café, Monogram and Hotpoint, so the platform, identified by model number, owns the table — never the badge.

CodeMeaning
E1Not a GE dishwasher fault code. GE's published dishwasher fault list contains no E1: GE's consumer displays are a number plus H for Delay Start, the C-code family (C1-C8), PF, Cup Open, H2O, FTD and PrS word displays, and LEAK DETECTED or 999 on leak-detection models, while GE's service sheet uses numeric F-codes read in Fault Code Display Mode. An earlier version of this entry tied E1 to the fill/drain system from 'period documentation'; that claim could not be traced to any GE document and is withdrawn. Diagnose the machine by its symptom, using the real GE code that symptom belongs to.
FEDNot a code GE publishes. 'FED' appears in neither GE's consumer dishwasher fault list — which reports faults as words and short codes such as FTD (Failure To Drain), H2O (low water) and PrS — nor in the fault table of GE's dishwasher service sheet, where stored faults are numeric F-codes (F86, F98 and their family) read in Fault Code Display Mode. The expansions sold online for it ('Fill Error Detected', 'Flood Error Detection') appear in no GE source.
FTDFailure To Drain — the dishwasher did not drain (GE's plain-language drain code).
H2OH2O error — the dishwasher is not detecting water fill (fill fault).
1HDelay Start mode; the number plus H shows the delay hours selected (1H = 1 hour)
2HDelay Start mode; the number plus H shows the delay hours selected (2H = 2 hours)
999Possible leak on models with Floor Protect with Alert; on other models the control needs a reset
ACFHigh supply voltage fault (shown as AcF on the seven-segment display)

Full list: GE Dishwasher Error Codes List — every verified GE code with causes and first fixes.

Frigidaire dishwasher error codes

Frigidaire (on the Electrolux platform) reports through a status window that mixes three kinds of message. Its fault codes are the i-series — i20/i40 for drain and filter restriction, i30 for the leak/anti-flood family covered by its own page on this site, i60 for the water heating system, iC0 for the electronic control — plus service-sheet codes such as uF for the drying vent fan (with uo and uC its vent-position companions). Around them sit instructions and states that are not faults: Cd/CL ('close the door' in two manual generations), PF for a power failure, HO/Hd while the cycle waits for the water to heat, LO for low rinse aid, and loc for locked controls. Frigidaire publishes no single consumer code list, so this site's Frigidaire table is verified owner's-guide by owner's-guide across model generations — which is also why codes a third-party list assigns to Frigidaire in other brands' formats (E-numbers, F-numbers) stay unverified here.

CodeMeaning
E20Platform-rendering variant of the drain fault on some Frigidaire/Electrolux platforms (E20 = drain system in those charts) — the i20 playbook applies.
E30Platform-rendering variant in the drain family on some Frigidaire/Electrolux platforms (E30-style codes appear in the drain/leak monitoring area by platform); diagnose with the i20/i30 playbooks by symptom.
ER'Er' on a Frigidaire dishwasher = switch failure (shorted keypad). Frigidaire's Service Data Sheet (Electrolux Home Products North America, P/N 808463501) lists display code Er exactly that way, and Electrolux's service manual for these dishwashers defines the underlying fault as a membrane switch failure: the control has verified that a pad on the membrane switch has been closed for one minute.
UOVent stuck open — Frigidaire's Service Data Sheet (Electrolux Home Products North America, P/N 808463501) lists display code Uo as 'Vent stuck open', with siblings uC 'Vent stuck closed' and uF 'Vent rpm too low or stopped'.
CLClose dishwasher door prompt (rendering used on GLD/FDB-series manuals; same instruction as Cd on other models)
CdClose dishwasher door prompt (rendering used on FGHD-series manuals; same instruction as CL on other models)
HOWater heat delay; the display flashes while the cycle waits for the water to heat
HdWater heat delay (older-model rendering of HO)

Full list: Frigidaire Dishwasher Error Codes List — every verified Frigidaire code with causes and first fixes.

LG dishwasher error codes

LG reports in plain two-letter display codes that name the failing act directly: IE for inlet (water not arriving), OE for outlet (water not leaving), AE — spelled E1 on some models — for a leak the machine has detected, FE for excessive water supplied, bE for a bubble error from the wrong detergent or an unlevel machine, HE for the heater circuit, tE for the thermistor, LE for the wash motor and nE for the vario (diverter) motor. Around the faults sits an equally documented set of non-fault displays — CL (control lock), Cd (Cool-dry still running), PF (power failed and returned), the P1-P4 Download cycle indicators, the L0-L4 rinse-aid levels and the test-mode displays — which LG's own manuals list beside the error table precisely because owners mistake them for errors. LG's manual remedy pattern is honest about the split: the water-path codes get owner checks (hoses, filters, disposal knockout, levelling), while the heater, sensor and motor codes end with the same instruction — call for service if it appears.

CodeMeaning
AEWater leakage — a leak is detected; the dishwasher sounds an alert for 10 seconds and runs the drain pump intermittently, and powers itself back on if switched off until the fault is resolved
CDNot an error: Cd means Cool-dry — an additional drying cycle that runs for a further 60 minutes after the course has finished to assist drying (older LG models)
CLNot an error: Control Lock (child lock) is activated and the control buttons are locked
E1Leak detected — the alternate rendering of the AE leak error used on some LG models (LG's own summary lists the pair as 'AE / E1')
FNot an error: a lone 'F' on the display means the sensor is measuring the water clarity (turbidity sensing, older LG models)
F37Auto Open Door feature is not functioning (listed in LG's own dishwasher code summary)

Full list: LG Dishwasher Error Codes List — every verified LG code with causes and first fixes.

Miele dishwasher error codes

Miele reports in F-numbers stored in a fault memory, and it is the most service-oriented system of the six: Miele's operating instructions show owners only the faults they can answer — the drainage fault F11 with its filter, pump and hose checks, the water-intake faults F12/F13 with stopcock, inlet-filter and pressure checks, F70 when the Waterproof system has reacted (switch off, close the stopcock, call Miele), and F78 for a circulation pump fault — and route every other F-number to the Miele Customer Service Department. The full list lives in Miele's technical documentation and is unusually precise about mechanism: separate numbers for the NTC sensor shorted (F01) versus open (F02), for the flow meter stationary (F18) versus stiff (F19), for the circulation pump slow (F67), running on after switch-off (F68), blocked (F69) and faulted (F78/F79), and for the slide shutter that diverts water between levels (F63/F84/F85). Not all codes apply to all models, as Miele's own summary warns — the number and the model travel together.

CodeMeaning
F00No fault registered — the fault memory read-out shows no stored fault
F01Water/heating NTC temperature sensor or its leads short-circuited; once registered, heating is not activated and rinse aid is not dispensed
F02Water/heating NTC temperature sensor or its leads open-circuited; once registered, heating is not activated and rinse aid is not dispensed
F11Drainage fault — the water is not draining away
F12Water intake fault at the start of the step — the dishwasher is not taking in water correctly
F13Water intake fault at the end of the step — the required water intake is not reached by the end of the intake step

Full list: Miele Dishwasher Error Codes List — every verified Miele code with causes and first fixes.

Same fault, six dialects: the drain family

CodeMeaning
Bosch E24 / E25Not draining properly — E24 drain filter blocked, E25 drain pump blocked or its cover loose
Samsung 5E / SE (5C family)Drain error — drain hose clogged or folded, or the drain hole inside the sump clogged
GE C3 / F98C3: dishwasher will not drain; F98: non-draining sump detected through the turbidity sensor
GE FTD (display models)Plain-language display: 'failure to drain' — the consumer-dialect equivalent of the stored drain codes
Frigidaire i20 / i40Clogged filters or a restricted drain line detected
LG OEDrainage problem — clogged, kinked or frozen drain hose, clogged air gap or disposal, or clogged filters
Miele F11Drainage fault — filter combination blocked, drain pump obstructed, or drain hose kinked or clogged

Same fault, six dialects: filling, leaking and heating

CodeMeaning
Bosch E18 / water-tap symbolWater flow problem, level too low / 'check water supply' — hose kinked, tap off, or supply filter blocked
Samsung 4E (4C family)Water supply error — supply valve closed, or the inlet valve or line frozen or clogged
GE H2O / F86H2O: water not entering (plain-language display); F86: no-fill failure — the pressure sensor does not sense filling
LG IEWater inlet problem — clogged, kinked or frozen inlet hose, or the water supply itself
Miele F12 / F13Water intake fault at the start (F12) or end (F13) of the intake step — stopcock, inlet filter or supply pressure
Bosch E15Leak protection activated — the safety switch has detected water in the base
Samsung LC / LELeakage error — the leakage sensor detects moisture; overfill or a leak into the bottom tray
GE LEAK DETECTED / F34Possible leak detected, cycle cancelled / Floor Protect pan fault — water detected in the drain pan
Frigidaire i30Leak / anti-flood family — water detected where it should not be (covered on its own page on this site)
LG AE / E1Water leakage detected — alert sounds, drain pump runs intermittently, machine re-powers itself until resolved
Miele F70Float switch fault — the Waterproof system has reacted to water in the base
Samsung HC / HE · LG HE / tE · Miele F24 / F01 / F02The heating families: Samsung heater and high-temperature errors, LG heater-circuit and thermistor failures, Miele heater-relay contact and NTC sensor short/open faults
Frigidaire i60A problem detected with the water heating system

The four owner checks that answer most dishwasher codes

Across all six brands, the codes owners can actually clear share the same short checklist, because they share the same physics. For any drain-family code: clean the filter system in the tub floor (every brand names it), check the drain hose for kinks where it passes through the cabinet, run the garbage disposal and confirm its knockout plug was removed if the disposal is new, and clean the air gap if one is fitted. For any fill-family code: confirm the stopcock is fully open, straighten the inlet hose, and clean the small filter in the inlet connection. For suds and level codes (LG bE above all): confirm only automatic-dishwasher detergent is used, at the right dose, and that the machine is level. For lock and state displays: answer the state — unlock the controls the brand's documented way, refill the rinse aid, close the door fully — and let the cycle prove the rest.

Equally shared is the point where owner checks stop. Heater, thermistor, pump-motor, diverter, pressure-switch and control codes name components inside a wet, powered cabinet, and every maker's documentation ends those rows the same way — LG and Bosch with 'call service', Miele by routing the code to its Customer Service Department, GE by putting the test in service mode. That is not the brands protecting a trade secret; it is the honest boundary of a table that cannot see your machine. Do the external checks for the code's family once, properly, reset once the way the brand documents, and run one cycle while you watch which act it fails at. A code that returns at the same act is diagnosed, not stubborn — quote the code, the model and the act to the technician, and you have done the part of the repair that was yours.

Why the same number is not the same code: a warning with examples

Dishwasher codes collide across brands more dangerously than they agree, because the alphabets are small and every maker filled them independently. F11 drains a Miele and appears on no verified Bosch dishwasher list on this site (Bosch drains at E24/E25) — while Bosch's own unverified folder shows owners searching Bosch machines for F-codes borrowed from other brands entirely. E1 is a leak on an LG (its AE spelling) and an unverified string on this site's Frigidaire and GE tables. Samsung's drain spellings 5E and SE collide with its own washer codes of the same letters, and its LC leak code is one letter away from LG's CL control lock — a state, not a fault. Even inside one brand the ground moves: GE's H2O display and its stored F86 describe the same dry tub in two dialects, Samsung re-spelled 4E into 4C and 5E into 5C between generations, and Frigidaire prints 'close the door' as Cd in one manual generation and CL in another.

The defence is boring and total: never decode a dishwasher code from a list that does not name the brand, the platform and ideally the model generation — and treat any universal 'dishwasher error codes' chart that mixes E, F, i and two-letter codes in one table as fiction, however tidy it looks. This page exists in the opposite shape on purpose: one shared explanation of the five acts every dishwasher supervises, then six separate brand tables, each verified against that maker's own documentation, with the codes we could not verify named on the brand pages without meanings rather than filled in from a neighbour's list. Find your brand's table, read your code there, and let the other five lists be what they are — translations you can compare after the fact, never dictionaries to borrow from.

How to diagnose any dishwasher code

Work the problem in this order: (1) record the code exactly, including any flashing tap or salt/rinse-aid symbols shown with it; (2) establish the water story — is there water in the base, is the tub dry, did the cycle stop early or never start — because dishwasher codes split into leak, fill, drain and heating families; (3) run the external checks first: supply tap and inlet hose for fill codes, filters, sump and drain hose for drain codes, and for leak codes, dry the base and watch where water appears on a short test cycle; (4) clear the code and re-run the shortest programme while observing — most dishwasher faults announce themselves in the first ten minutes; (5) replace parts last, in the order the code family suggests. A leak code in particular should never be cleared and ignored: the float that raised it is the only thing between a small leak and a floor.

Frequently asked questions

What is the most common dishwasher error code?

The drain family, in every brand's dialect: Bosch E24/E25, Samsung 5C/5E, GE FTD or C3, Frigidaire i20, LG OE and Miele F11 all report the same event — the water is not leaving. It dominates because its causes are owner-side and cumulative: filters that clog gradually, drain hoses kinked during installation, air gaps and disposals that block, and a disposal knockout plug left in after a replacement. Fill codes (LG IE, Samsung 4C, Miele F12/F13) and leak codes (Bosch E15, LG AE, Miele F70) complete the usual podium.

Are dishwasher error codes the same across brands?

No. There is no cross-brand standard: Bosch and Miele use letter-number codes with different letters (E versus F) and different meanings behind similar numbers, Samsung and LG use two-letter codes that overlap in spelling but not always in sense, GE splits plain-language displays from stored service codes, and Frigidaire mixes i-series fault codes with plain instructions in one status window. A few families coincide in spirit — every brand has a drain, a fill, a leak and a heating code — but the labels are each maker's own and must be read in that maker's table.

My dishwasher shows a code but still washes. Is it broken?

Possibly not — every brand documents displays that are states, not faults. Control locks (LG CL, GE LOC, Frigidaire loc), LG's rinse-aid level (L0-L4), Download cycle (P1-P4), test-mode and Cool-dry (Cd) displays, GE's Delay Start hours (1H/2H), Frigidaire's HO heat-delay and LO rinse-aid reminders, and Miele's F00 ('no fault registered') all appear on healthy machines. The test is consequence: answer the state (unlock, refill, wait, press a button) and run a cycle — a state clears and the wash completes, while a true fault stops the machine at the same stage again.

Why does my dishwasher show the same code again after I reset it?

Because the reset cleared the display, not the condition. On the next cycle the control re-runs the same supervision — fill proven, pump turning, temperature rising, tub emptying, base dry — and re-detects the same failed act, often within minutes. Several brands also store the code in a fault memory that survives the reset, so the 'cleared' code is still on record for a technician. Do the external checks for the code's family once, reset once, and watch which act fails: a code that returns at the same act every time is a standing fault, and its brand-table row is the diagnosis to quote.

Can I keep using a dishwasher that shows a leak code?

No — a leak code (Bosch E15, Samsung LC/LE, GE LEAK DETECTED, Frigidaire i30, LG AE/E1, Miele F70) means water is already somewhere it should never be: the base or drain pan under the tub. Miele's operating instructions give the correct response for its F70 and it generalises: switch the machine off, close the water supply stopcock, and have the leak found before the machine washes again. Restarting against a leak code runs the fill valve and pumps against an active leak and converts a repairable fault into floor and cabinet damage.

When is a dishwasher code a DIY fix and when is it a service call?

The dividing line is whether the cause lives outside the cabinet. Drain and fill codes whose checks are filters, hoses, air gaps, disposals and stopcocks are owner territory on every brand — those are the checks the manuals themselves print. Codes naming a heater, thermistor, circulation or drain pump motor, diverter, pressure switch, flow meter or control board are service territory on every brand too: LG, Bosch and Miele say so in as many words, and GE keeps those tests in service mode. Leak codes are the exception that outranks both: owner action is limited to turning the water and power off — finding the leak is the technician's job.

Related guides

Bosch dishwasher error codesSamsung dishwasher error codesGE dishwasher error codesFrigidaire dishwasher error codesLG dishwasher error codesMiele dishwasher error codes