Samsung Washer 4E Error Code: Meaning, Causes & Fix
Water supply error — the washer is not filling (older-display version of 4C).
4E is the water-supply fault on older Samsung washers; newer models display the identical fault as 4C. The control has called for water and the level sensor has not seen the tub fill within the allowed time, so the cycle stops. Everything about 4E — causes, checks and fixes — matches 4C; Samsung simply changed the code format between display generations. The 4E/4C relationship deserves stating exactly as Samsung documents it, because the internet usually gets it backwards. Samsung's own current support pages title the fault '4E (4C)' — the older code named first, the newer in brackets — and its manual information-code tables group the fault as '4C, 4E, E1: water is not supplied', while the US support page groups the same fault as 'nF, 4C, 4E: not filling error'. There are not two faults here and there is no conversion to perform: one water-supply fault has worn several display spellings across Samsung generations, and 4E is simply the spelling older displays use. Two neighbours must not be swept into it. The temperature-of-supply family — shown as 4C2/4E2 and nF1 on US pages — is a different report, about supply water that is extremely hot because the hoses are swapped. And NF is not a different fault either, just the same not-filling report in the letter style top-load displays favour. Read 4E as 'the washer is not receiving enough water', in Samsung's own summary, and every source agrees.
What causes the 4E code on a Samsung washer?
Supply taps closed or hoses kinked
The most common cause, especially after the machine was moved or plumbing work was done.
Blocked inlet screens
Sediment in the mesh filters at the valve inlets throttles the fill until it times out.
Inlet valve failure
A solenoid that has failed open-circuit or a valve stuck shut stops fill completely.
Low water pressure
Weak supply (well systems, partly closed stop valves) stretches fill time past the limit.
A blocked detergent dispenser drawer
Samsung's UK and Ireland 4E/4C guides name a cause most owners walk straight past: occasionally, a 4C check code may be displayed if there is a blockage in the dispenser drawer. On models where incoming water routes through the drawer to flush detergent into the tub, a drawer choked with dried detergent, a spilled pod wrapper or months of softener residue throttles the fill exactly the way a clogged inlet screen does — the machine cannot tell which restriction is starving it, and it should not have to: both are on Samsung's published check list for this code. A 4E that arrives with a drawer that is visibly gunked, or on a machine whose drawer has never been out, belongs to this branch until the drawer has been removed, checked for obstructions and cleaned.
Supply hoses connected to the wrong inlets, or a hot line that was never connected
Samsung's US washer code page makes a point owners rarely expect: make sure both the hot and cold water supply hoses are connected to the correct inlets, hot to hot and cold to cold — and if you do not connect the hot water line, you will get an error when the washer attempts to use hot water, which may happen even on cycles labelled Cold. Samsung's service-side code table adds the crossed-hose version of the same story, listing wrongly connected warm-water and rinse connectors among the 4E/E1/4C causes. The diagnostic signature is a 4E that only appears on warm or hot selections, or only on certain cycles, on a machine whose cold fills are perfectly brisk: one inlet is being asked for water it does not have, or is receiving the other line's water.
A drain hose fitted so the fill siphons straight back out
Samsung includes the drain hose inside its not-filling guidance, which surprises people until the mechanism is clear: the control judges filling by the level sensor, and water that leaves as fast as it enters never raises the level. Samsung's Pakistani 4C/4E guide states the drain hose should not be inserted more than 6 inches into the drainpipe and should not form an airtight connection, and its AE guide adds that the hose end belongs between 60 cm and 90 cm above the floor in its supplied guide. A hose pushed deep, sealed airtight, or dropped too low can siphon a healthy fill away and present it as a supply fault — which is why a 4E on a newly installed or newly replumbed machine is an installation check before it is a parts check.
Checks to run before you replace anything
- Make sure both water taps are fully open.
- Inspect hoses for kinks, and in winter, for frozen sections.
- Remove the hoses at the machine and clean the inlet filter screens.
- Check flow from the taps into a bucket to separate house problems from machine problems.
- Wait out the machine's own response before pressing anything: Samsung's Malaysian fill/drain guide explains that when the 4C (4E) error occurs the washing machine will drain for 3 minutes and the power button will be inoperative, and Samsung's information-code tables add that all buttons will be disabled for 3 minutes after these codes appear. A panel that ignores you for those three minutes is behaving as documented, not freezing — let the drain finish, then start your checks.
- Judge your supply against Samsung's stated window, not against how the kitchen tap feels: Samsung's Ireland guide gives the water pressure for this fault as between 0.5 bar and 8 bar, and describes the usual 4E situation as low pressure or a low flow rate on the mains supply. A house can have a strong-feeling tap and still sag below the window when a shower, dishwasher or irrigation line opens — which is why a 4E that only appears at busy times of day is a pressure measurement to make, ideally while another fixture is running.
- Clean the mesh filters the way Samsung describes, at both ends of the job: Samsung's Indian guide has you turn off the water source, unscrew the hose from the back of the machine, gently pull the mesh filter out with a pair of pliers, rinse it under the tap until clean, push it back, reconnect, turn the tap on and make sure the connections are watertight — and Samsung advises cleaning the water hose mesh filter at least twice a year to prevent build-up. Check every inlet your model has; cleaning the cold screen and leaving a grit-packed hot screen explains a 4E that survives on warm cycles only.
- Separate the temperatures before suspecting the valve: run a cold-only fill and then a warm or hot fill and note which one sets 4E. Cold-only success with warm failure points at the hot side — its tap, its hose, its screen, its solenoid, or a hot line that was never connected. Failure on both, with proven taps and clean screens, is the pattern that earns the inlet valve its continuity test.
How to fix samsung washing machine error code 4e?
- Clean the inlet screens and restore full tap flow — the majority of 4E cases end here.
- Test inlet valve solenoids for continuity with the machine unplugged; replace the valve assembly if one is open.
- If water visibly enters the tub but 4E still sets, check the level-sensor hose for blockages or damage.
- Clean the dispenser drawer as a fill fix, not as housekeeping: following Samsung's UK sequence — remove the drawer, check for any obstructions, clean if required, and insert the drawer back into the washing machine. Compacted detergent at the drawer's water entry is a genuine fill restriction on drawer-fed models, and this step costs nothing but ten minutes.
- Put the plumbing right in Samsung's order: hoses on their correct inlets (hot to hot, cold to cold), both taps opened all the way, and — if the hot line was never connected — connect it, because Samsung is explicit that the washer will error when it attempts hot water without it, even inside cycles labelled Cold. Then correct the drain hose at the same visit: no more than 6 inches into the drainpipe, no airtight seal, held in its guide at the height your model's installation guide specifies.
- Finish a screen clean the way Samsung finishes it — watertight: after rinsing and refitting the mesh filters and reconnecting the hoses, turn the water back on and make sure the connections are watertight before pushing the machine back, exactly as Samsung's guides close the procedure. A connection left a quarter-turn loose is the classic self-inflicted sequel to a 4E repair: it weeps at the back of the machine under fill pressure, and it is found by a dry-handed check of each joint during the first fill, not by the puddle an hour later.
The part that usually fails: Water inlet valve assembly
The usual failed part when screens are clean. Meter each solenoid for continuity; an open reading against a good twin solenoid confirms failure.
How to reset / clear the 4E code
Power-cycle for 5 minutes after the fix and start a cycle; 4E clears once a normal fill is detected.
On Samsung washers most fault codes clear with a power reset: switch the machine off, unplug it (or trip the breaker) for at least 5 minutes so the control board fully discharges, then restore power and run a short Rinse+Spin or a small test load. If the code was caused by a one-off condition — a kinked hose, an unbalanced load, a suds spike — it will not come back. If it returns on the next cycle, the control has detected the same fault again and the reset has only cleared the message, not the cause. Samsung does not use a button-combination 'master reset' on most models; the power cycle is the reset.
Why does the 4E code keep coming back?
Recurring 4E after cleaning usually means pressure that drops when the house draws water elsewhere, or a level-sensor hose that is slowly taking on water and misreporting the level. A 4E that keeps coming back after clean screens and open taps is almost never the screens again — it is the machine reporting the same shortfall from a different seat in the same chain. Read the pattern before re-cleaning anything: 4E only at peak household demand is the supply sagging under Samsung's 0.5 bar floor; 4E only on warm cycles is the hot side (tap, screen, solenoid, or no hot line at all); 4E that began the week plumbing work was done is sediment re-clogging the screens or a hose left crossed; 4E on a new installation is the drain hose siphoning the fill. Each pattern has its own one-step proof, and running that proof beats repeating the filter clean — Samsung's own endpoint, once its published checks are done, is a service request, and arriving there with the pattern documented is what makes that visit short.
How to stop 4E coming back
- Supply taps closed or hoses kinked: The most common cause, especially after the machine was moved or plumbing work was done.
- Blocked inlet screens: Sediment in the mesh filters at the valve inlets throttles the fill until it times out.
- Inlet valve failure: A solenoid that has failed open-circuit or a valve stuck shut stops fill completely.
Retrieving stored fault codes on Samsung washers
Most Samsung washers store recent fault codes that a technician can read in the service/diagnostic mode. Entry varies by model family: on many front-loaders you press and hold Delay End and Pre Soak (or Temp and Spin, on older models) together for about 3 seconds until the display lights all segments; on top-loaders a similar two-button hold (often Delay End + Pre Soak) is used. Once inside, the cycle knob steps through stored codes and component tests (fill, drain, motor, heater). Because the button pair differs between model years, confirm the pair for your exact model in the tech sheet fixed inside the machine or in the user manual before relying on a code you read there.
Other Samsung washer error codes
| Code | Meaning | First fix |
|---|---|---|
| 1C | Water level sensor is not working properly. | Turn machine off and restart the cycle; if it remains, contact Samsung service. |
| 1DC4 | FlexWash door error; rubber button by upper washer latch is missing. | Replace the rubber button; Samsung says service is not required for this code. |
| 1E | Water level or leakage error; moisture detected or sensor issue. | Check for leaks and kinked hoses; run an empty cycle; request service if it returns. |
| 3C | Motor error — the washer's drive motor is not running correctly (motor drive/PCB communication family). | Remove the jam: check the filter, the door seal folds and (front-load) the gap between drum and gasket for trapped items. |
| 3E | Motor error; older display variant of the 3C motor family. | Power off for 2-3 minutes and restart; if it persists, contact Samsung service. |
| 4C | Water supply error — the washer is not filling with water (or is filling too slowly). | Clear the inlet screens (above) — this alone fixes the majority of 4C cases. |
| 4C2 | Hot/cold error; cold supply water is extremely hot because hoses are swapped. | Connect cold supply to cold inlet and hot to hot, blue to blue, red to red. |
| 5C | Drain error — the washer is not draining water out of the tub. | Clean the debris filter and refit it snugly — a filter not fully seated can also leak, so run a short drain/spin and watch for drips. |
| 5E | Drain error; 5E is the older display variant of 5C. | Clean the debris filter and check the drain hose and waste connection for blockages. |
| 8C | MEMS (vibration) sensor error. | Power off for a few minutes and restart; if it remains, contact Samsung service. |
| 8E | MEMS/vibration sensor error on most models; check your manual. | Power off for a few minutes and restart; if it remains, contact Samsung service. |
| 9C1 | Voltage error; irregular electrical supply detected. | Use the washer's own circuit with no extension cord; restart; request service if it continues. |
| 9C2 | Voltage error; irregular electrical supply detected. | Use the washer's own circuit with no extension cord; restart; request service if it continues. |
| 9C8 | Voltage/power-supply related fault code reported on some Samsung washer platforms (9C family covers electrical supply and board power issues). | Correct the supply issue: different circuit, repaired outlet, or an electrician if the house supply itself sags. |
See the full list on the Samsung Washer error codes hub.
Codes 4E gets confused with
NF — No Fill — the washer is not filling with water (one spelling of Samsung's not-filling family). NF is one display spelling of Samsung's not-filling fault — the same water-supply problem other models report as 4C/4E.
ND — No Drain — the washer is not draining (Samsung groups nd with 5E/SE/5C/SC as one no-drain family). ND (shown as nd on many displays) is Samsung's no-drain report: the control ran the drain pump but the water did not leave at the correct speed, or at all.
SE — No drain — the washer is not draining (Samsung lists SE in its nd, 5E, SE, 5C, SC no-drain family). It is not a sensor error on washers. SE is a spelling Samsung itself prints for its washer no-drain fault: Samsung's US/Caribbean washer information page groups the family as 'nd, 5E, SE, 5C, SC, 1 5C: No drain error — water is not draining from the washer at the correct speed (or at all)', and its published fix sequence is to turn the washer off and check the level, inspect the drain hose, clean the pump filter (front loaders only), then turn the washer back on and start a cycle.
XL — Not a Samsung washer fault code — no XL entry exists in Samsung's published washer code lists. 'XL' in Samsung laundry searches refers to extra-large-capacity models and listings, and searches for an 'XL error code' usually trace back to a capacity description or a misread display. Samsung sells extra-large-capacity washers (its own product literature words the feature 'Extra-Large Capacity', shortened to XL in retailer listings and size categories), and the 'XL' from a listing is frequently mistaken for an error code when the machine stops for another reason.
Working from a symptom instead? Read our troubleshooting guide for this problem.
Frequently asked questions
My Samsung shows 4E — is it the same problem as 4C?
Yes, it is the same water-supply fault on an older display generation. Follow the 4C checks.
How to Fix Samsung Washing Machine Error Code 4E?
Work Samsung's published order: confirm the water tap is open to full, check the supply hose for kinks or bends, and clean the water hose mesh filter — Samsung calls a blocked water supply hose the most common reason for 4E (4C) and advises cleaning the mesh filter at least twice a year. Then cover the two checks owners miss: remove the dispenser drawer and clear any blockage, which Samsung says can itself display the code, and confirm the hot and cold hoses are on their correct inlets. If the code remains after the supply side is proven, Samsung directs you to its service organisation.
Samsung VRT Washer Error Code 4E — Is the Fix Different on a Top Loader?
No — the VRT top-load line uses the same water-supply family: Samsung's US code page groups nF, 4C and 4E together as the not-filling error, whichever letters a given display shows. The checks are identical (taps fully open, hoses unkinked and on the correct inlets, mesh filter screens cleaned, drain hose inserted no more than 6 inches and not airtight). The one top-load addition in Samsung's guidance is for a top-loader that underfills without showing a code: Samsung's Pakistani guide suggests using a Deep Wash or Deep Fill cycle to add more water.
Why Is My Samsung Washer Showing Error Code 4E and Leaking?
Treat the pair as one address until proven otherwise: the back of the machine, where the supply hoses meet the inlet valve. Samsung's 4E procedure ends with an explicit instruction to turn the tap back on and make sure the connections are watertight — a hose connection disturbed during a mesh-filter clean, cross-threaded, or refitted over a perished washer will weep under fill pressure while the same disturbed joint can also interrupt the fill the code is reporting. Turn the taps off, reseat each connection squarely, restore water and watch the joints through a full fill with a dry hand. Water appearing anywhere other than the hose joints — under the machine, or at the door — is not part of the 4E story and needs its own leak diagnosis before the machine runs again.
Why Does My Samsung Washer Keep Giving 4E Error Code After I Clean the Filters?
Because the filters were only the first suspect on Samsung's list, and a returning 4E has a short set of remaining addresses: pressure that sags below Samsung's 0.5 bar minimum when the house draws water elsewhere; a dispenser drawer blockage, which Samsung names as a 4C cause in its own right; hoses on the wrong inlets or a hot line never connected, which fault only the cycles that call for that water; a drain hose inserted too deep or sealed airtight, siphoning the fill away; and only then the inlet valve or level sensing, which is where Samsung hands the case to service. Note when the code returns — which cycle, which temperature, what else was running in the house — because that timing is what separates the branches.
Related guides
Facts on this page were checked against manufacturer documentation: www.samsung.com · www.samsung.com · www.samsung.com · www.samsung.com