Maytag Washer Error Codes List: Every Code Explained

Every Maytag washer error code we could verify against Maytag's own documentation — what it means, what usually causes it, and the first fix to try — in one table. Codes differ between model series, so treat your model's tech sheet as the final word.

How to read and retrieve error codes on Maytag washers

Whirlpool platforms have a well-documented diagnostic mode. On front-load (Duet and later) models: with the machine in standby, press and hold any one button for 3 seconds, release for 3 seconds, repeat for a total of three holds — the display lights up and shows stored fault codes (F-codes with E-suffixes), which you step through with the same button. On top-load VMW models (most Maytag/Whirlpool/Kenmore top-loaders since ~2010): turn the cycle knob with a specific left/right sequence (commonly counterclockwise once, then clockwise three, counterclockwise one, clockwise one) until all status LEDs light, then use the knob to read fault codes as LED blink patterns. The tech sheet inside the cabinet lists the exact sequence and code chart for your model — use it rather than a generic chart, because code meanings shifted between Duet, Cabrio/Bravos and VMW generations.

The complete Maytag washer error code list

How to reset / clear error codes on Maytag washers

Whirlpool-built washers clear most codes with a power reset: unplug for 1 minute (top-load models with a cycle-status display sometimes need the lid opened and closed 6 times within 12 seconds after power is restored — the well-known lid-sequence calibration/clear procedure on VMW top-loaders). Codes stored in the control's fault history remain readable in diagnostic mode even after they stop showing on the display, which is why a code that 'went away' can still be found by a technician.

How to diagnose any Maytag washer code

Work the problem in this order: (1) write the code down exactly as displayed — photograph it, because opening the door or pressing pause can clear it; (2) ask what the machine was doing when the code appeared — filling, washing, draining, spinning or heating points straight at the fault family; (3) run the external checks for that family first: taps and inlet screens for fill codes, the pump filter and drain hose for drain codes, load size and levelling for balance codes, the door seal and latch for lock codes — these cure the majority of washer codes without a single part; (4) clear the code and run the shortest cycle that exercises the same function (a rinse-and-spin for drain faults, a small wash for fill faults) while you watch — a code that returns in the same phase is an active fault, not a glitch; (5) only then test or replace the component the code monitors, and re-test under the same conditions that produced the fault. Skipping to step 5 is how good parts get replaced for a clogged filter.

The most searched Maytag washer codes, in detail

5D — Suds detected

On Maytag washers (Whirlpool-built), 5D is the suds code Sd as read on a 7-segment display: the control detected oversudsing and is running its reduction routine. Detergent dose, non-HE product, soft water, or tub build-up — a condition, not a breakdown.

Most likely cause: Too much detergent — HE dose is 1–2 tbsp.

First check: Foam visible? Product HE? Dose honest?

If it keeps coming back: Build-up or dosing.

CL — Control Lock / Child Lock status on Maytag washers

CL on a Maytag washer is a status display: most often Control Lock (buttons disabled deliberately), and on some models a prompt/state tied to the Clean Washer cycle. Neither is a breakdown. The release is a button hold printed on the panel (Maytag commonly uses a 3-second hold on the marked Control Lock key). If CL appeared during a cleaning cycle, follow that cycle's prompts instead.

Most likely cause: Control Lock active — Or a cleaning-cycle state awaiting the next step.

First check: Buttons unresponsive + CL = lock. Mid-clean-cycle + CL = follow the cycle prompts.

If it keeps coming back: Self-engaging CL = sticking panel key suspicion.

E01 — The E-half of a Maytag F-code pairing (e.g. F9E1 drain, F8E1 fill, F5E1/E2 lock family)

Maytag's Whirlpool-platform displays alternate F and E halves just like Whirlpool's: 'E01' searched alone is half a code. The E1 pairings: F9E1 (drain system), F8E1 (long fill), F7E1 (motor speed), F3E1 (level system), F5E1 (lock system state). Watch the display through a full alternation, match the symptom, and use the completed code's guide.

Most likely cause: Partial reading of an alternating display — The F-half scrolled by.

First check: Watch 10–15 seconds for both halves; match symptom to family.

If it keeps coming back: If an F-half never appears, suspect display segment failure — photograph it.

E3 — Platform-specific Maytag code

Maytag's current platforms speak F-codes (F9E1, F5E2…). E3 belongs to earlier Maytag code conventions (including Neptune-era and some commercial/legacy lines), where its meaning varies by generation — motor/drive faults and temperature/sensor faults both appear in period documentation for different models. Inventing a single definition would mislead; the reliable path is the model number plus its tech sheet (inside the console or cabinet on most Maytags). The universal first moves still apply: note the symptom (won't spin? won't fill? stops mid-cycle?), power-cycle once, and let the symptom family guide you.

Most likely cause: A legacy-platform fault (motor/drive or sensor family by generation) — Only the model's chart says which.

First check: Watch for an alternating F-half (F3 + E1 would make it a level-system fault).

If it keeps coming back: A recurring code with a pattern (same cycle stage every time) is the best clue you can hand a technician — note it.

UL — Unbalanced load

UL is the balance give-up code on Maytag top-loaders: redistribution attempts failed. Single dense items, tiny loads, unlevel installation, and worn suspension rods — the universal quartet.

Most likely cause: Single heavy item — Mats/blankets clump.

First check: Redistribute; rock-test corners; bounce test the tub.

If it keeps coming back: Increasing frequency on normal loads = rod wear.

XL — Not a Maytag fault code

Maytag sells XL-capacity models, and the badge gets mistaken for a code. Maytag's fault system is the F-code family (F9E1, F5E2, F7E5…) plus letter codes (UL, OL, Sd…). There is no XL fault. If the machine stopped, the real code is on the display at the moment of failure — capture it, and match the symptom (standing water → drain family; no fill → fill family; spin shake → balance family).

Most likely cause: Capacity badge mistaken for a code — XL = extra-large tub.

First check: Re-run and watch the display at the stop; photograph the code.

If it keeps coming back: Repeated stops with no readable code: run it watched, note stage + display at the stop — that's a technician's first question too.

Less common and model-specific codes

Search data shows owners also meet these codes on Maytag washers: AF, D16, D5, E1, H12, OOB, SE, UE. They are not part of the core code list Maytag publishes for most models — several are series-specific, abbreviated display readings, or codes carried over from a sister platform — so we do not publish meanings for them rather than guess. Treat them by symptom: note what the machine was doing when the code appeared (filling, draining, heating, spinning), run one full power cycle (5 minutes off), and if the code returns, match the symptom to the closest documented family in the table above and check the tech sheet stored inside your machine for the model-specific definition.

Frequently asked questions

Related guides

Facts on this page were checked against manufacturer documentation: producthelp.maytag.com · producthelp.maytag.com · manualsdump.com · manualmachine.com · hugepdf.com