GE Washer Error Codes List: Every Code Explained
Every GE washer error code we could verify against GE's own documentation — what it means, what usually causes it, and the first fix to try — in one table. Codes differ between model series, so treat your model's tech sheet as the final word.
How to read and retrieve error codes on GE washers
GE electronic top-loaders report faults through the control's service mode and, on many models, through an LED on the motor inverter board that blinks in patterns (1 blink = motor OK/idle states, repeated patterns per fault type). The field service mode is entered with a button/knob sequence listed on the mini-manual inside the console or cabinet.
The complete GE washer error code list
| Code | Meaning | Most likely cause | First fix |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Top-load and front-load fault code: basket spins with the lid or door unlocked | Basket spun by hand, or lid/door lock switch not reporting locked during spin | Unplug the washer and check the lid/door lock switch wiring; replace the lock/switch assembly if the wiring is sound |
| 2 | Top-load fault code: lid lock/switch failure (front-load GFW: door lock failure, also shown as 62) | Lid or door lock/switch assembly not locking or not reporting to the control | Unplug the washer and check the lock/switch wiring connections; replace the lock/switch assembly if the wiring is sound |
| 3 | Locked motor; the drive motor cannot rotate the basket | Overloaded washer, item stuck between the basket and outer tub, damaged spin bearing, or failed drive motor or start capacitor | Remove part of the load and restart; if the basket does not rotate smoothly by hand, this needs a service technician |
| 4 | Electronic control board reset its software; shown on power-up or when exiting service diagnostics, no fault detected | Normal control software reset, not a part failure | No action is needed; run a cycle normally and note the code only if a real fault code follows it |
| 5 | Mode shifter failure (also shown as 10); the shifter did not move between agitate and spin | Failed mode shifter or loose shifter wiring at the electronic control board | Unplug the washer and reseat the mode shifter harness; shifter resistance should measure about 5,700 ohms, otherwise replace the mode shifter |
| 6 | Water overflow error | Leaking inlet water valve, loose or damaged water-level air hose, or failed water-level sensor on the control board | If the tub fills while the washer is unplugged, replace the inlet valve; otherwise check and reseat the air hose between the tub and the control board |
| 7E | WSL-model fault code: water supply error | Blocked fill hose, filter or valve, a defective inlet valve, or incorrect hose connection | Check both faucets are on and inspect the fill hoses and inlet valve filter for clogging; rinse the filter under running water |
| 8 | Water level pressure sensor failure | Clogged inlet valve screens, kinked or blocked supply, loose or damaged pressure sensor air hose, or failed sensor on the control board | Confirm both supply faucets are open and check the inlet screens and the pressure air hose; replace the hose if it is pinched or punctured |
| 9 | Lid or door switch error; the control detects the lid or door has not been opened for 3 consecutive cycles | Cycles run back-to-back without opening the lid or door, or a lock/switch that no longer detects opening | Open and close the lid or door between cycles; if it still appears, check the lock/switch wiring and replace the assembly if sound |
| 11 | AC power is not 60 Hz | Household power supply frequency is not 60 Hz, or the control board misreads it | Check with your power company about the supply; no washer part is indicated by this code alone |
| 12 | Water overflow error (also shown as 20 or 21 on top-load models) | Leaking inlet water valve, loose or damaged water-level air hose, or failed water-level sensor on the control board | Check the air hose between the tub and the control board and reseat or replace it; if the tub fills while unplugged, replace the inlet valve |
| 15 | Thermistor (temperature sensor) failure | Failed thermistor or a loose thermistor wire harness connection at the control board | Unplug the washer and reseat the thermistor harness; replace the thermistor if the wiring is sound |
| 16 | Not draining; water is draining more slowly than expected | Clogged drain or drain hose, kinked hose, siphoning drain, or failing drain pump | Check the drain and drain hose for clogs and kinks first; then check the drain pump wiring and replace a pump that will not run |
| 17 | Basket won't spin at the start of a wash cycle; the control expects dry garments, not a wet load or standing water | Washer started with wet garments or water still in the tub, or a binding basket | Drain any water from the tub and start with a dry load; if it appears with an empty tub, check the basket rotates freely by hand |
| 18 | Not draining (fold '18') | Clogged drain or drain hose, kinked hose, or failing drain pump | Check the washer drain for a clog and the drain hose for a kink or restriction; replace the drain pump if it does not run when activated |
| 19 | Washer paused for more than 24 hours, or water in the tub while the washer is off | A paused cycle left over 24 hours, wet laundry dripping into the tub, or a leaking inlet water valve | Restart a paused cycle within 24 hours and remove wet laundry promptly; if the tub fills while off and unplugged, replace the inlet valve |
| 20 | Front-load fault code: water overflow error (top-load overflow group is 12, 20 or 21) | Leaking inlet water valve, loose or damaged water-level air hose, or failed water-level sensor on the control board | Check and reseat the air hose between the tub and the control board; if the tub fills while unplugged, replace the inlet valve |
| 22 | Can't balance the dry load to start the cycle | Uneven dry load, binding basket, or an item stuck between the basket and outer tub | Redistribute the load and start the cycle again; if it repeats on an empty basket, check the basket spins smoothly by hand |
| 25 | Control detects a water level drop when the washer isn't draining (front-load: also shown as 65) | Drain hose installed too low or too far into the standpipe causing siphoning, a tub leak, or a loose or damaged pressure air hose | Correct the drain hose installation first, then check and reseat the pressure air hose and inspect the tub for leaks |
| 26 | Out of balance during the final spin (also shown as 31; fold '26') | Unevenly distributed load, washer not level, binding basket, or worn spin bearing | Redistribute the load and run Drain & Spin; check all four leveling legs have full floor contact if the code reappears |
| 27 | Lid or door has been open more than 15 minutes with water in the tub (fold '27') | A paused cycle left open too long, water dripping from wet garments after a no-spin cycle, or the level sensor misreading an empty tub | Close the lid or door and restart within 15 minutes of pausing; if the tub is empty, check the pressure air hose for looseness or damage |
| 29 | Excessive suds caused the cycle to stop | Too much detergent or non-HE detergent, so suds prevent the washer from draining | Let the suds dissipate, then finish with a rinse, drain and spin cycle; use the correct amount of HE detergent |
| 30 | Stuck key on the control panel | A control panel key held closed, or a failed user interface control or harness | Unplug the washer and check the harness between the user interface and the control board; replace the interface control if the harness is sound |
| 32 | Can't unlock the lid or door (front-load GFW: also shown as 77) | Failed lid/door lock/switch assembly or damaged lock wiring | Unplug the washer and check the lock/switch wiring; replace the lock/switch assembly if the wiring is sound |
| 37 | Front-load GFW fault code: heater failure | Failed heater or thermistor, or loose heater or thermistor wiring at the control board | Heater and thermistor resistance checks are service work; thermistor should measure about 12,000 to 15,000 ohms and the heater about 15 ohms at room temperature |
| 38 | Front-load GFW fault code: vent damper failure (group 38, 39, 40 or 84; fold '38' — distinct from E38 below) | Failed vent damper or loose vent damper wiring at the control board | Unplug the washer and reseat the vent damper harness; replace the vent damper if the wiring is sound |
| 57 | Front-load GFW fault code: door is unlocked and the detected water level is above the door threshold | Water genuinely above the door level, a leaking inlet valve, or the control board misreading water level on an empty washer | Drain the water if the level is high; if the washer is empty, the control board's level detection needs service |
| 58 | Front-load GFW fault code: electronic control board failure | Failed electronic control board | Control board replacement is service work; record the code and model number for the technician |
| E2 | Lid lock switch error; on space-saving top-load models dE or E2 means the lid was opened and the washer paused (fold 'e2') | Lid opened during the cycle, or the lid lock switch not confirming the lid is locked | Close the lid and press Start/Pause to restart; if the lid is closed and the code stays, the lid lock needs service |
| E22 | Front-load fault code: no fill or slow fill (fill timeout) | Supply valves not fully open, frozen or clogged fill lines, siphoning drain, or a defective inlet valve assembly | Open both water supply valves fully and check the fill lines and inlet screens; correct any drain siphon before replacing the inlet valve |
| E23 | Front-load fault code: washer overfilled with water (flood protect) | Inlet valve not shutting off, or a failed water level sensor reporting an empty tub | If the washer keeps filling with power disconnected, replace the inlet valve; if it is empty when the code appears, replace the water level sensor |
| E30 | Front-load fault code: no drain | Excess suds the washer cannot drain, a clogged drain pump large-item filter, or a defective drain pump | Remove excess suds, then unplug the washer and clean the drain pump filter; replace the pump if it is defective |
| E31 | Front-load fault code: draining timed out (slow drain) | Clogged drain pump filter or drain path, or a defective drain pump | Unplug the washer and check the large-item filter in the drain pump for a clog; replace the pump if it is defective |
| E38 | Front-load fault code: dispenser error; the dispenser can't move into position (distinct from GFW numeric 38 above) | Jammed or damaged dispenser mechanical linkage on the dispenser housing | Unplug the washer and check the mechanical linkage on the dispenser housing; repair or replace damaged dispenser parts |
| E39 | Front-load fault code: dispenser won't move (dispenser timeout) | Dispenser linkage fault or dispenser switches not opening and closing | Unplug the washer and check the mechanical linkage on the dispenser housing; repair or replace damaged dispenser parts |
| E42 | Front-load fault code: drive motor drawing too much current (grouped with E45, overload current) | Overloaded washer, item trapped between the basket and outer tub, loose motor wiring, or failing drive motor or inverter board | Reduce the load and check the basket spins freely; motor and inverter diagnosis is service work if the code returns on a light load |
| E43 | Front-load fault code: inverter control board defective (DC fault) | Failed inverter control board that manages drive motor speed | Inverter board replacement is service work; record the code and model number for the technician |
| E46 | Front-load fault code: drive motor overheating (motor or inverter over temperature) | Overloaded or binding motor, or loose drive motor wiring connections | Let the washer cool and reduce the load; persistent overheating with sound wiring means the drive motor needs service |
| E47 | Front-load fault code: inverter control board overheating (heat sink over temperature) | Drive motor overloading the inverter, or loose motor wiring connections | Unplug the washer and check the drive motor wiring; an inverter driven into overheating by a failing motor is service work |
| E48 | Front-load fault code: drive motor defective, open motor phase (open winding) | Open drive motor winding or a disconnected motor phase wire | Unplug the washer and reseat the drive motor wiring; an open winding means the drive motor needs replacement |
| E49 | Front-load fault code: drive motor overloaded (overload power) | Overloaded washer, item trapped between the basket and outer tub, or failing drive motor or inverter board | Reduce the load and remove any trapped item; if the code persists on a light load, motor and inverter diagnosis is service work |
| E57 | Front-load fault code: main control board failure (grouped with E58; checksum or communication failure in GE's front-load list) | Failed main control board or corrupted control software | Unplug the washer for 3 minutes to reset the main control board; if the code returns, the main control board needs replacement |
| E60 | Front-load fault code: door lock assembly failure (group E60, E61, E63 or E64) | Damaged door lock assembly or a loose door lock wiring connection | Check the door lock assembly for damage and reseat its wiring; replace the door lock assembly if both are sound |
| E65 | Front-load fault code: water level sensor failure | Failed water level sensor or loose or damaged sensor wiring | Unplug the washer and reseat the water level sensor wiring; replace the sensor if the wiring is sound |
| E66 | Front-load fault code: water temperature sensor defective (E66 open, E67 shorted in GE's front-load list) | Open or shorted water temperature sensor, or damaged sensor wire harness | Unplug the washer and reseat the temperature sensor wiring; replace the sensor if the wiring is sound |
| E70 | Front-load fault code: stuck key on the control panel (key read continuously for 60 seconds) | A panel key held closed by damage or moisture, or a failed control panel | Unplug the washer for 3 minutes to reset the control board; if the code returns on power-up, the control panel needs replacement |
| E71 | Front-load fault code: defective main control board (key fault; communication error between control and keys) | Failed main control board or control panel key communication fault | Unplug the washer for 3 minutes to reset the control board; if the code returns on power-up, this is service work |
| H2O | H2O / H20 supply error — the washer is not detecting water fill (no water detected entering). | Taps off/partly open, hoses kinked or frozen | Restore supply flow (taps/hoses/screens). |
| IE | WSL-model fault code: water level sensor error | Failed water level (pressure) sensor, or a clogged or damaged sensor hose | Press Power On/Off to turn the washer off and check the pressure sensor hose for clogs; sensor replacement is service work |
| OE | WSL-model fault code: water overflow error | Inlet valve stuck open or a failed water level sensor letting the tub overfill | Shut off the water supply if the tub is overfilling, then have the inlet valve and level sensor tested |
| UE | WSL-model fault code: unbalance switch error; unbalanced load detected | Load bunched to one side of the basket, or a failed unbalance switch | Redistribute the laundry evenly in the basket and restart the spin; check the washer is level if it repeats |
| dE | WSL-model fault code: lid open error (also shown as E2 on GE space-saving top-load models, where the lid opening pauses the washer) | Lid not closed or latched, or a failed lid lock/switch | Close the lid firmly and press Start/Pause; if the code stays with the lid closed, the lid lock/switch needs service |
How to reset / clear error codes on GE washers
GE's classic reset for top-loaders: unplug for 1 minute, plug back in, then lift and lower the lid 6 times within 30 seconds (the motor reset procedure GE publishes for its Hydrowave and later electronic top-loaders). Front-load GE models clear codes with a straight 5-minute power cycle. If a code returns immediately after reset, the fault is active.
How to diagnose any GE washer code
Work the problem in this order: (1) write the code down exactly as displayed — photograph it, because opening the door or pressing pause can clear it; (2) ask what the machine was doing when the code appeared — filling, washing, draining, spinning or heating points straight at the fault family; (3) run the external checks for that family first: taps and inlet screens for fill codes, the pump filter and drain hose for drain codes, load size and levelling for balance codes, the door seal and latch for lock codes — these cure the majority of washer codes without a single part; (4) clear the code and run the shortest cycle that exercises the same function (a rinse-and-spin for drain faults, a small wash for fill faults) while you watch — a code that returns in the same phase is an active fault, not a glitch; (5) only then test or replace the component the code monitors, and re-test under the same conditions that produced the fault. Skipping to step 5 is how good parts get replaced for a clogged filter.
Two GE generations, two ways of reporting faults
GE washers changed dialects mid-history. Older electronic models store faults that a technician reads as blink counts on the control or motor board, with no code on the display at all. Newer top-loaders show two-digit fault numbers directly. The same physical fault — a drain that times out, a lid lock that will not prove — therefore has two unrelated labels depending on the machine's generation, and advice written for one generation is meaningless on the other. Your model number and its manual settle which dialect your machine speaks; the table below keys entries the way GE displays them on the generation that uses them.
Stored faults outlive the display
GE washer controls remember faults after the display clears them, and the stored history is often the real diagnosis: a machine that faulted once on a genuine overload looks identical, afterwards, to one whose drain pump is dying by degrees — but the stored history separates them, because the dying pump leaves the same code again and again. This is why a technician's first move on an intermittent GE washer is the service mode fault recall, and why clearing codes before anyone reads them destroys evidence. Photograph and note every code before you reset anything.
The most searched GE washer codes, in detail
H2O — H2O / H20 supply error
GE washers display H2O (read as H20) when the control calls for water and the pressure sensor doesn't see the level rise. It's GE's fill fault: supply taps, hoses, inlet screens, the inlet valve, and the pressure sensor/hose chain — the same order as every brand's fill code, with GE's own wrinkle that a clogged pressure-sensor hose dome is a frequent sleeper cause on top-loaders.
Most likely cause: Taps off/partly open, hoses kinked or frozen — The everyday causes, first after any move or plumbing work.
First check: Taps fully open; hose run checked; screens cleaned.
If it keeps coming back: H2O returning after cleaning usually tracks sediment re-clogging screens (house-side grit) or a sensor hose slowly re-sludging — check the dome again before buying parts.
Less common and model-specific codes
Search data shows owners also meet these codes on GE washers: 353, 92, LE, USE. They are not part of the core code list GE publishes for most models — several are series-specific, abbreviated display readings, or codes carried over from a sister platform — so we do not publish meanings for them rather than guess. Treat them by symptom: note what the machine was doing when the code appeared (filling, draining, heating, spinning), run one full power cycle (5 minutes off), and if the code returns, match the symptom to the closest documented family in the table above and check the tech sheet stored inside your machine for the model-specific definition.
Frequently asked questions
How to fix error codes for ge washer?
Start with the table above: find your code, run its first fix (usually a no-tool check — supply, filter, hose or load), then clear the code and run a short test cycle. If the same code returns, work through the cause list for that code before replacing parts.
Related guides
Facts on this page were checked against manufacturer documentation: products.geappliances.com · products.geappliances.com · manuals.plus · www.applianceaid.com · www.applianceaid.com · www.applianceaid.com · removeandreplace.com · washingcodes.com