GE Oven & Range Error Codes List: Every Code Explained
Every GE oven & range error code we could verify against GE's own documentation — what it means, what usually causes it, and the first fix to try — in one table. Codes differ between model series, so treat your model's tech sheet as the final word.
How to read and retrieve error codes on GE oven & ranges
GE electronic range controls store fault codes (the F-code family) that often display only briefly or in a service mode; many GE boards show the last fault when a specific pad combination is pressed (detailed in the service manual for the control). The F-code chart is also printed on the tech sheet stored with the range (often in an envelope near the storage drawer or behind the rear panel).
The complete GE oven & range error code list
| Code | Meaning | Most likely cause | First fix |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bad Line | Unit is wired incorrectly; displays when power is applied to the unit but it has not been wired correctly | Incorrect supply wiring at the outlet or terminal block, such as reversed or missing line or neutral connections | Do not keep resetting it; contact the installer or a licensed electrician to correct the mis-wire, after which GE says the oven will function normally |
| ERR | Invalid entry when setting the oven controls; not a hardware fault | An out-of-sequence or unsupported combination was entered on the controls | Press Cancel/Off and re-enter the cooking settings in the correct order |
| F0 | Keypanel problem; GE says the keypanel usually needs to be replaced | Failed or stuck keypanel on the electronic oven control | Press Cancel/Off, allow the oven to cool for one hour and cut power for at least 30 seconds; if the code repeats, call for service |
| F1 | Keypanel problem; GE says the keypanel usually needs to be replaced | Failed or stuck keypanel on the electronic oven control | Press Cancel/Off, allow the oven to cool for one hour and cut power for at least 30 seconds; if the code repeats, call for service |
| F2 | Oven temperature too high — the control sensed an over-temperature condition (or a sensor reading that implies one) during bake. | Temperature sensor drift/failure | Replace the temperature sensor if its resistance is out of family. |
| F3 | Open temperature sensor circuit — the control sees the oven sensor as disconnected/open (F3 family: sensor circuit faults). | Sensor failed open | Replace an open sensor; clean/repair the connector; repair harness damage. |
| F4 | Oven sensor fault; GE says the oven sensor usually needs to be replaced | Failed oven temperature sensor or its circuit | Press Cancel/Off and allow the oven to cool for one hour; sensor replacement is service work if the code repeats |
| F5 | Electronic control fault; GE says the electronic control usually needs to be replaced | Failed electronic oven control | Cut power at the breaker for a minute or two to try to clear it; if it repeats, keep the oven off at the breaker and call for service |
| F6 | Keypanel problem; GE says the keypanel usually needs to be replaced | Failed or stuck keypanel on the electronic oven control | Press Cancel/Off, allow the oven to cool for one hour and cut power for at least 30 seconds; if the code repeats, call for service |
| F7X | Internal component fault; GE says an internal component usually needs to be replaced (F7 followed by another character) | Failed internal control component, split by model in GE service literature | Cut power at the breaker for a minute or two; if the code repeats, call for service with the full model number |
| F8 | Electronic control fault; GE says the electronic control usually needs to be replaced | Failed electronic oven control | Cut power at the breaker for a minute or two to try to clear it; if it repeats, keep the oven off at the breaker and call for service |
| F20 | Part of GE's extended F-code family on newer platforms — F20-series codes on GE ovens relate to sensor/temperature circuit checks (the two-digit extensions of the F2/F3 family); the model's chart assigns the exact branch. | Sensor circuit fault | Sensor/connector/harness as found; board relay branch only with a proven sensor and a held-on element. |
| F34 | Extended sensor-circuit fault on newer GE ovens — a member of the F3 group (temperature sensor circuit), reported in the extended code format used by GE's current electronic controls. | Sensor resistance out of window | Meter the sensor from its connector (breaker off, rear access per your model's layout): a healthy GE sensor reads about 1,080 ohms at room temperature. Readings far off, open, or shorted condemn the sensor itself. |
| F97 | Extended F9x code on newer GE platforms — door lock circuit family (lock motor drive/sensing branch); diagnosis follows the F9 playbook. | Lock motor not driving | Free/straighten mechanics; replace the lock assembly if it won't drive a free latch; repair wiring found damaged. |
| F350 | Upper cooling fan circuit fault, or an obstruction in the cooling fan — GE's published definition for F350 on its newest oven controls. | An obstruction in the cooling fan | Clear any obstruction from the fan and its vents, then reset the breaker for several minutes and test with a moderate bake. |
| FC | Door lock circuit fault; a component has failed somewhere in the door lock circuit | Failed door lock motor, switch or wiring in the self-clean lock circuit | Do not force the door; allow the oven to cool and cut power for at least 30 seconds, then call for service if it repeats |
| FD | Meat probe or receptacle fault; GE says the probe or its receptacle may need to be replaced | Shorted or damaged temperature probe or probe receptacle | Remove the probe and check the receptacle for moisture or debris; replace the probe first if the code persists without it |
| FF | Electronic control fault; GE says the electronic control usually needs to be replaced | Failed electronic oven control | Cut power at the breaker for a minute or two to try to clear it; if it repeats, keep the oven off at the breaker and call for service |
| LOC | Child Lockout (control lock) is active; not a fault, the feature prevents the oven being turned on accidentally | Control Lockout feature was engaged, deliberately or by an accidental press | Turn the lockout off using the control-lock steps in your model's owner's manual |
| Loc Door | LOC DOOR flashing in the display when the self-clean cycle has not been selected | Control lockout engaged or the door lock system reporting locked outside a clean cycle | Check whether control lockout is engaged and follow GE's LOC DOOR control reset for your model; call for service if it keeps flashing |
| OFF | Oven is too hot to set self-clean, or too hot to bake or broil just after a self-clean cool-down | Cavity temperature still above the limit for the function requested | Allow the oven to cool down longer and try again; no repair is needed if it clears as the oven cools |
| Unlock Door | Door will not unlock after a self-clean cycle | Door lock still engaged because the oven has not cooled below the locking temperature, or a lock mechanism fault | Allow the oven to cool fully and follow GE's control reset for a locked door; never force the latch |
How to reset / clear error codes on GE oven & ranges
GE range F-codes clear with a power reset: trip the breaker for about 5 minutes, restore power, and run a bake test. Codes that return during the start-up self-check (GE boards test the sensor circuit and keypad within seconds of power-up) point at an active component fault, not a stored glitch.
How to diagnose any GE oven & range code
Work the problem in this order: (1) record the code exactly — ranges often show the code only briefly or store it, so write it down before resetting the breaker; (2) note the context: did it appear during preheat, mid-bake, broil, or during/after a self-clean cycle — oven codes split into temperature-sensing, latch/lock, and control families, and self-clean heat is the stress that exposes most of them; (3) let the oven cool fully before judging a latch or sensor fault, because several codes are thermal states, not failures, until the temperature falls; (4) run the external checks: breaker fully reset (both poles on a double breaker), the oven sensor probe visibly intact and not touching the cavity wall, the door closing and latching evenly; (5) test the temperature sensor before the control board — sensors drift and fail far more often than boards, and an oven that consistently runs hot or cold with no code is describing the same component. Do not run self-clean again on an oven that coded during one until the cause is found.
GE range codes are numbered by the system they watch
GE range fault codes group themselves: the low F codes (F0, F1) report the control and its keypad, the temperature family (F2, F3, F4) reports the oven sensor circuit reading too high, open or shorted, the F7 family reports stuck or shorted keypad keys, and the lock family (F9 and the extended F96/F97 on newer controls) reports the door lock circuit. Reading the family first narrows the diagnosis before any testing: a temperature-family code on an oven that also cooks unevenly is a sensor story, while the same code on an oven that cooks true is a connection or control story.
Self-clean is the stress test that exposes oven faults
A striking share of GE range codes first appear during or just after a self-clean cycle, because self-clean drives the cavity far hotter than any baking does and heat is what marginal parts cannot survive: sensor connections drift, lock switches that report honestly when cold start lying when hot, and keypads with moisture in them short. An oven that codes only around self-clean is not haunted — it is giving you a thermal diagnosis. Note the timing when you describe the fault, and do not run self-clean again until the cause is found, especially on any lock-family code.
The most searched GE oven & range codes, in detail
F2 — Oven temperature too high
F2 is GE's classic oven overheat code: during a bake cycle the sensed temperature ran beyond the allowed limit above the set point. Two families of cause: the oven genuinely overheated (a relay stuck on, an element fault) or the temperature sensor is lying high (drifted sensor reading hundreds of degrees that aren't there). The sensor is testable in minutes with a meter, which is why it's the first stop.
Most likely cause: Temperature sensor drift/failure — A sensor reading high makes the control see overheating that isn't happening — the commonest F2 story when the oven doesn't feel abnormally hot.
First check: Was the oven actually blazing hot, or normally warm? Your hand near the vent (carefully) and the food's state tell you which family you're in.
If it keeps coming back: F2 returning with a new sensor and a cycling-normal element suggests the board's sensor input is drifting — or the sensor connector is heat-damaged (check it before the board).
F20 — Part of GE's extended F-code family on newer platforms
Newer GE oven controls extend the classic F-codes into F20-series numbers for finer fault splits within the same systems — temperature sensing chief among them. An F20-family code should be approached like its parents: the oven's temperature sensor circuit (sensor ~1,080Ω at room temperature, its connector, its harness) is the test path, and genuine over-temperature behaviour (element held on) is the board-relay branch. The model number's chart pins the exact suffix meaning.
Most likely cause: Sensor circuit fault — Drifted/open/shorted sensor or its connector — the family trade.
First check: Meter the sensor (~1,080Ω room temp) and inspect its connector.
If it keeps coming back: Recurrence with proven sensor circuit = board input/relay — technician.
F3 — Open temperature sensor circuit
F3 means the sensor circuit reads open (infinite resistance) — the control gets no temperature signal at all and shuts heating down. The sensor itself can fail open, but the connector and harness fail just as often: the sensor plug lives in a hot, greasy zone and its terminals corrode or loosen. F3's sibling F4 is the shorted-sensor version; together they're the sensor-circuit pair.
Most likely cause: Sensor failed open — The element inside the sensor probe breaks continuity.
First check: Meter at the sensor's own plug: ~1,080Ω at room temp = sensor good → the fault is downstream (connector/harness/board). Open at the sensor = replace the sensor.
If it keeps coming back: F3 that comes and goes with oven temperature suggests a connector that opens as it heats — replace the connector/sensor lead section, not just the sensor.
F34 — Extended sensor-circuit fault on newer GE ovens
GE's newer oven controls replaced the classic two-character codes with extended ones, and F34 sits in the F3 group: the temperature-sensor circuit. Where old GE ranges said F3 (open sensor) or F4 (shorted sensor), current controls split the same electrical territory into finer codes, F34 among them. The physics hasn't changed: the control watches the sensor's resistance to know the cavity temperature, the reading has fallen outside the window it trusts, and heating is shut down because an oven that cannot measure its temperature must not be allowed to make heat. Treat F34 exactly as a sensor-circuit diagnosis, not as a mysterious new disease.
Most likely cause: Sensor resistance out of window — The probe in the cavity (upper rear wall on most GE ovens) has drifted, opened or shorted with heat ageing — sensors live a hard life at self-clean temperatures.
First check: Smell and look first: if the code appeared right after a self-clean cycle, heat damage at the connector is the prime suspect (self-clean is when marginal connectors die).
If it keeps coming back: An F34 that returns only during high-heat or self-clean cycles is a connector opening as it expands with heat — replace the connector/sensor lead section rather than the sensor again. A code that returns within days on a proven sensor circuit is the board's sensor input failing.
F350 — Upper cooling fan circuit fault, or an obstruction in the cooling fan
GE's own fault-code list defines F350 plainly: there is a problem in the upper cooling fan circuit, or something is obstructing the cooling fan. The cooling fan is the fan that pulls air across the control and electronics area (and around the cavity on many built-in and self-clean models) to keep the electronics from cooking themselves. The control watches that circuit; when the fan does not run, runs out of its expected range, or its circuit reads open or shorted, the control sets F350 and will typically refuse heating cycles until the fan story is resolved. The code belongs to the extended three-digit F3xx format GE's newest controls use, and it is a fan code — not a temperature-sensor code, despite sitting numerically near the F3 sensor family.
Most likely cause: An obstruction in the cooling fan — Foil, a displaced piece of insulation, a pan stored against a vent, or debris drawn into the fan housing can stall the fan or slow it below what the control expects — GE lists obstruction first for a reason.
First check: Note the debut: during or after self-clean, during a long high bake, or at power-on? Cooling-fan faults overwhelmingly debut around the hottest cycles.
If it keeps coming back: F350 that returns only around self-clean or very long bakes is the heat pattern — a connector expanding open when hot, or a motor that fails as it heat-soaks. F350 present from a cold power-on is a hard fault: obstruction, open motor, or open circuit. Log which pattern yours shows before the technician visit; it halves the diagnosis.
F97 — Extended F9x code on newer GE platforms
F97 sits beside F96 in GE's extended lock family: the control's attempt to drive or read the door lock has faulted. Suspects are the lock motor assembly (motor + switches as one unit), its wiring, and latch mechanics — after the free first step of re-homing the latch with a full lock/unlock travel, especially if a power event preceded the code.
Most likely cause: Lock motor not driving — Motor failure or its power feed interrupted.
First check: Re-home attempt; listen for motor effort on self-clean start; inspect latch travel and connectors.
If it keeps coming back: Recurring F97 after an assembly change = control output or harness — technician.
Less common and model-specific codes
Search data shows owners also meet these codes on GE oven & ranges: E2, E3, E6, F200, F353, F7E6, F7E7, F802, H25, Range. They are not part of the core code list GE publishes for most models — several are series-specific, abbreviated display readings, or codes carried over from a sister platform — so we do not publish meanings for them rather than guess. Treat them by symptom: note what the machine was doing when the code appeared (filling, draining, heating, spinning), run one full power cycle (5 minutes off), and if the code returns, match the symptom to the closest documented family in the table above and check the tech sheet stored inside your machine for the model-specific definition.
Related guides
Facts on this page were checked against manufacturer documentation: products.geappliances.com · www.geappliances.com · www.manualshelf.com