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Daikin Air Conditioner Error Codes List: Every Code Explained

Daikin Air Conditioner display showing full error code list — FixCode Guide error code graphic

Every Daikin air conditioner error code we could verify against Daikin's own documentation — what it means, what usually causes it, and the first fix to try — in one table. Codes differ between model series, so treat your model's tech sheet as the final word.

Safety first. Before you start: unplug the appliance (or switch off its breaker) before opening any panel, and close the water taps before disconnecting hoses. A Daikin system joins a pressurised refrigerant circuit to mains-voltage electrics, and its codes divide along exactly that line. Owners may clean filters, clear the outdoor unit's air path of debris, check a drain outlet, replace remote batteries and power-reset the system once. Everything past that — opening the outdoor unit, touching refrigerant piping, stop valves or the expansion valve, measuring pressures, recharging, or working on compressors, inverter boards and fan motors — belongs to a licensed refrigeration technician: inverter boards hold dangerous charge after the power is off, refrigerant can cause freeze burns and displaces oxygen in confined spaces, and in many countries handling refrigerant without certification is illegal, not merely unwise. Never bypass a pressure switch, a leakage detector or an external protection device to keep a unit running, and if you smell burning, see scorch marks or hear repeated breaker trips, switch the system off at the isolator and leave it off until a technician has seen it.

How to read and retrieve error codes on Daikin air conditioners

Daikin builds the diagnosis into the remote controller. On residential wireless remotes (the ARC433 family and its successors) Daikin's operation manual documents fault diagnosis by remote controller: point the remote at the indoor unit and hold the TIMER CANCEL button down for 5 seconds — a code indication flashes in the temperature display section, starting from '00' (normal). Then press TIMER CANCEL repeatedly: each press steps the displayed code through Daikin's list, and the indoor unit answers with beeps. A continuous long beep at a code means that code is the malfunction the unit is reporting; a short beep and two consecutive beeps mean a non-corresponding code — keep stepping. To cancel the code display, hold TIMER CANCEL down for 5 seconds again; it also cancels itself if no button is pressed for 1 minute. On wired and VRV wireless (BRC4C82-type) controllers the route is the INSPECTION/TEST button: pressing it enters inspection mode, the inspection display blinks, the operation lamp flashes and the malfunction code plus the number of the faulted unit are shown. You then step the unit number with the programming timer buttons until the unit beeps (3 short beeps = run the full procedure for that unit, 1 short beep = skip to the code steps, 1 long beep = normal state), set the first character of the code with the mode selector, step it with the timer buttons until the unit gives 2 beeps, then set the second character the same way until 1 long beep fixes the code. On VRV outdoor units a technician can also read the code in the outdoor PCB's monitor mode (BS1 MODE / BS2 SET / BS3 RETURN buttons step through first digit, second digit and fault location on the LED/7-segment display). Whichever route you use, record the full code and the unit number before resetting anything — on group and VRV systems the unit number is half the diagnosis.

The complete Daikin air conditioner error code list

CodeMeaningMost likely causeFirst fix
A0External protection device activated (indoor) — a safety or protection device wired to the indoor unit has tripped and stopped the systemThe connected external device (for example a condensate safety switch or an accessory protection contact) has opened, or its wiring/connector to the indoor PCB is faultyCheck what the external device is protecting (a full condensate tray is the classic) and clear that condition first; device and wiring checks are technician work — do not jumper the protection input
A1Indoor unit PCB failure — Daikin's VRV chart words it as an EEPROM failure on the indoor printed circuit board; the indoor control board itself is defectiveA failed indoor PCB/EEPROM, sometimes after a power surge or electrical noise; the board can no longer run the unitTry one full power reset at the breaker (off several minutes, back on). If A1 returns, the indoor PCB must be diagnosed and usually replaced — technician work
A3Drain level abnormal (indoor) — the drain-level control system (float switch S1L) reports water too high in the indoor drain panA blocked or sagging condensate drain, a failed drain pump, or a stuck/defective float switch — water is backing up instead of draining awayStop cooling and check the drain outlet for a blockage and the hose for kinks; clear what you can reach from outside. Pump, float switch and internal drain work are technician jobs — running on A3 risks a ceiling leak
A5High-pressure control or freeze-up protection (indoor, residential splits) — in heating the indoor coil pressure/temperature ran too high, in cooling the coil began to freezeUsually restricted airflow: clogged filters, a dirty indoor coil, blocked inlet/outlet, or low refrigerant in the cooling/freeze branchClean the air filters, clear anything blocking the indoor unit's air path and retry once. If A5 returns, a technician checks refrigerant and the coil sensors — do not keep resetting it
A6Indoor fan motor fault — fan motor lock, overload or overcurrent; the indoor blower is not turning as commandedA jammed or failed indoor fan motor, a blocked blower wheel, or a faulty motor drive/connection on the indoor PCBSwitch off and check for anything visibly obstructing the fan outlet; do not reach inside a powered unit. Motor and board diagnosis are technician work
A7Swing flap motor malfunction (indoor) — the motorised louvre/flap that directs airflow has failed or jammedA failed swing motor, a flap physically obstructed or knocked off its drive, or a faulty connection to the indoor PCBRemove anything blocking the flap and never force it by hand against the motor. If A7 persists the swing motor is replaced — a minor repair, but still a parts job
AFDrain malfunction / humidifier system malfunction (indoor) — Daikin's charts use AF for a drain-level-above-limit condition and, on units with a humidifier option, a humidifier system faultCondensate above its limit (drain blockage family, like A3) or a fault in the optional humidifier unit/water path, depending on modelTreat it as a water problem first: stop cooling, check the drain outlet and any humidifier water feed. Internal drain and humidifier repairs are technician work
AHAir-purifier / dust-collector unit malfunction (indoor) — Daikin's VRV chart calls it the filter dust chamber malfunction; the dust-collection element itself has faultedA failed or saturated dust-collecting element/air-purifier unit, or its connection to the indoor PCBOnly the purifier function stops on most models — the air conditioner itself may keep running. Element replacement and purifier diagnosis are dealer/technician work
AJCapacity setting malfunction (indoor) — the indoor unit's capacity setting (adaptor or stored capacity data) is wrong, missing or unreadableThe capacity setting adaptor is not installed, is the wrong one or is disconnected, or capacity was never written to the board's data-retention IC — typically after a PCB change or installation errorInstaller/technician work: fit the correct capacity adaptor for the exact model or re-enter the capacity data, then re-test. This is a setup fault, not a worn part
C1Transmission failure between indoor PCBs — the indoor unit's main PCB and sub PCB are not communicating with each otherA loose or damaged interconnecting harness between the indoor boards, a connector fault, or a failed main/sub PCBOne power reset is worth trying; a returning C1 needs the board-to-board wiring and both boards checked — technician work inside the indoor unit
C4Heat exchanger thermistor malfunction, liquid side (indoor) — the sensor on the indoor coil's liquid pipe (R2T) reads open, shorted or out of rangeA failed thermistor, a damaged sensor lead, or a poor connector contact at the indoor PCBTechnician work: the thermistor and its connector are tested and the sensor replaced if faulty. The unit may keep running on some models, but temperature control is unreliable until it is fixed
C5Heat exchanger thermistor malfunction, gas side (indoor) — the sensor on the indoor coil's gas pipe (R3T) is faultyA failed thermistor, damaged wiring, or a connector/contact fault at the indoor PCBTechnician work: test and replace the thermistor or repair its connection. As with C4, Daikin notes an abnormal stop may or may not be applied depending on model
C9Suction air thermistor malfunction (indoor) — the room-air intake sensor (R1T) that tells the unit the room temperature is faultyA failed suction-air thermistor, a broken sensor lead, or a connector faultTechnician work: replace the thermistor or repair its connection. Until fixed the unit cannot sense room temperature correctly, so cooling/heating control will misbehave
CADischarge air thermistor malfunction (indoor) — the sensor measuring the air leaving the indoor unit is faultyA failed discharge-air thermistor, damaged wiring, or a poor PCB connector contactTechnician work: test the thermistor circuit and replace the sensor if out of specification
CEMovement detector / floor temperature sensor malfunction (indoor) — Daikin's SkyAir chart words it as the intelligent-eye / floor sensor; the occupancy/floor sensing option has faultedA failed intelligent-eye or floor temperature sensor, or its connection to the indoor PCBTechnician/dealer work: check the sensor and its harness, replace if faulty. Comfort sensing features that use the sensor stop working until it is repaired
CJRemote controller thermistor malfunction — the temperature sensor inside the remote controller (user interface) has failedA failed sensor in the remote controller itselfDaikin's SkyAir manual notes the remote's own sensor stops working but control by the indoor unit's sensor continues. Replacing the remote controller is the cure — dealer work
E1Outdoor unit PCB malfunction — the outdoor unit's main printed circuit board is defectiveA failed outdoor PCB, sometimes after a surge, or a defective connection of the indoor/outdoor relay wiring feeding itOne full power reset at the isolator is worth trying. A returning E1 means board-level diagnosis and usually PCB replacement — licensed technician work (mains voltage inside the outdoor unit)
E2Current (earth) leakage detector activated (outdoor, VRV) — the outdoor unit's leakage protection has tripped and stopped the systemCurrent leaking to earth in the outdoor unit — moisture ingress, damaged insulation, or a failing compressor/fan electrical partDo not keep resetting it: a leakage trip is a safety event. A licensed technician must find the leakage source before the unit runs again
E3High pressure switch activated (outdoor) — refrigerant pressure on the high side rose until the high-pressure switch cut the system outDaikin's VRV chart lists: a dirty outdoor heat exchanger, a closed stop valve, refrigerant overcharge, clogged refrigerant piping, or restricted airflow over the outdoor coilOwner checks: clear debris from around the outdoor unit and make sure its air inlet/outlet are unobstructed, then retry once. Anything beyond that — charge, stop valves, the switch itself — is licensed refrigerant work
E4Low pressure malfunction (outdoor) — pressure on the low side fell abnormally and the low-pressure protection stopped the systemRefrigerant shortage, a closed stop valve, a clogged refrigerant path, or a defective low-pressure sensor/PCB reading (Daikin's chart lists all of these)Licensed technician work: leak/pressure diagnosis with gauges. Do not just top up — Daikin's own chart pairs E4 with checking the refrigerant amount and the stop valves for a reason
E5Compressor lock detection (outdoor) — the inverter compressor is locked or its motor overheated/overloaded and the protection stopped it (residential charts word it as the overload (OL) starting)A mechanically locked or failing compressor, a UVW wiring/connection error, a defective inverter PCB, or excessive pressure difference across the compressorStop and call a licensed technician — repeatedly restarting a locked compressor damages the inverter drive. Compressor and inverter diagnosis is pro-only
E6Standard compressor lock / overcurrent, or faulty compressor start-up (outdoor, non-inverter and SkyAir models) — the standard compressor will not start or draws excess currentA locked or failed compressor, a stop valve left closed, a defective electronic expansion valve, refrigerant shortage, or a faulty control PCB (Daikin's chart lists these branches)Licensed technician work only: compressor, valve and charge diagnosis. Do not keep cycling power into a compressor that will not start
E7Outdoor fan motor malfunction — the outdoor fan motor system has faulted: lock, overload, overcurrent or loss of its rotation signalA failed DC fan motor, a fan physically blocked from rotating (debris, ice), or a broken harness/connector between motor and PCBWith power OFF, clear anything visibly jamming the outdoor fan. If E7 returns, motor/harness diagnosis is technician work — the fan sits in a mains-voltage compartment
E8Input overcurrent detected (outdoor, inverter splits) — the inverter compressor's input current exceeded its limit and operation haltedA failing compressor drawing too much current, a defective inverter power stage/main-circuit capacitor, or a faulty outdoor PCB/power transistor (Daikin's chart branches)Licensed technician work: compressor and inverter drive diagnosis. Stop the unit — an overcurrent drive fault gets more expensive the longer it is run
E9Electronic expansion valve malfunction (outdoor) — the moving part/coil of the outdoor electronic expansion valve (Y1E/Y2E) has faultedA defective expansion valve coil, a coil connector disconnected, or a defective outdoor control PCB driving itTechnician work: check the coil connection, test the coil, replace the valve coil or board as found. Refrigerant flow cannot be controlled correctly until it is fixed
EAFour-way valve / cool-heat switching malfunction (outdoor) — the reversing valve that switches cooling and heating has faulted, or the system cannot change over correctlyA defective four-way valve or its coil, refrigerant shortage upsetting the changeover, a faulty thermistor, or a defective outdoor PCB (Daikin's chart branches)Technician work: valve coil, thermistor and charge checks. A unit stuck heating in summer (or vice versa) with EA is reporting the changeover system, not the thermostat
F3Discharge pipe temperature malfunction (outdoor) — the compressor discharge temperature is abnormally high and the protection control stopped the unitRefrigerant shortage starving the compressor of cooling, a closed stop valve, or a clogged refrigerant path — Daikin's chart ties F3 to checking the refrigerant amount and stop valvesLicensed technician work: charge and piping diagnosis. Running a compressor hot on F3 is how a code becomes a compressor replacement
F6Refrigerant overcharge detection (VRV) / high-pressure control in cooling (residential splits) — the system sees more high-side pressure than the charge and conditions explainToo much refrigerant charged into the system, or (on splits) a dirty outdoor coil/restricted airflow driving high pressure in coolingOwner check on splits: clean the outdoor coil area and clear airflow obstructions, retry once. Charge correction is licensed work — refrigerant is removed and weighed, never vented or guessed
H3High pressure switch malfunction (outdoor) — the high-pressure switch itself has failed (compare E3, which is the switch correctly doing its job)A defective high-pressure switch, or its connector/wiring contact to the outdoor PCBTechnician work: test and replace the switch or repair its connection. Because H3 and E3 sit on the same circuit, the diagnosis must separate a bad switch from genuinely high pressure
H4Low pressure switch malfunction (outdoor) — the low-pressure switch itself has failed (compare E4, which is low pressure correctly detected)A defective low-pressure switch or sensor, or a faulty connector contactTechnician work: test the switch/sensor circuit and replace as found, after proving the actual low-side pressure is healthy
H6Operation halt due to faulty position detection sensor (outdoor, residential splits) — the compressor's rotor position signal the inverter relies on is faultyA failed position-detection signal from the compressor, a compressor wiring fault, or an inverter drive problem reading itLicensed technician work: compressor and inverter diagnosis. Treat H6 as a stop code — the drive cannot control the compressor safely without position feedback
H7Outdoor fan motor signal malfunction — the fan motor's position/rotation signal is abnormal (Daikin's charts word it as an abnormal position signal of the outdoor fan motor)A failing fan motor feedback circuit, a damaged motor harness, or a motor that cannot turn freelyPower off and clear anything jamming the fan; a returning H7 needs motor and harness testing — technician work
H8Current transformer (CT) abnormality (outdoor, residential splits) — the current sensor the control uses to watch compressor current is faulty (VRV charts word the family as a DC current sensor fault)A failed current transformer/sensor or its connection on the outdoor PCBTechnician work: sensor and board diagnosis. Without a trustworthy current reading the control cannot protect the compressor, so do not run the unit on H8
H9Outdoor air thermistor malfunction — the sensor measuring outdoor air temperature (R1T) is faulty (residential charts word it as the suction air temperature sensor)A failed outdoor-air thermistor (open/short), a damaged lead, or a connector fault at the outdoor PCBTechnician work: test and replace the thermistor or repair its connection
J1Pressure sensor malfunction (outdoor, combined/batch sensor on VRV charts) — the refrigerant pressure sensing system has faultedA failed pressure sensor, or its wiring/connector to the outdoor PCBTechnician work: sensor circuit testing and replacement. Pressure-based protection and control are blind until the sensor is trustworthy again
J2Current sensor malfunction (outdoor) — the current sensor (CT) circuit is faultyA failed current sensor, or a harness/connector fault between sensor and PCBTechnician work: test the sensor circuit and replace as found
J3Discharge pipe thermistor malfunction (outdoor) — the sensor on the compressor discharge pipe (Tdi) reads open, shorted or out of rangeA failed discharge thermistor, a sensor that has slipped off the pipe, or damaged wiringTechnician work: refit or replace the thermistor and check its harness. This sensor guards the compressor against overheating, so the fault matters beyond the code
J4Heat exchanger gas temperature thermistor malfunction (outdoor) — the sensor on the outdoor coil's gas side (Tg) is faulty (Daikin's SiE30-408 chart: malfunction of the sensor for heat exchange pipe)A failed coil gas-side thermistor, damaged wiring, or a connector fault at the outdoor PCBTechnician work: test and replace the thermistor or repair its connection (VRV models; compare J6, the coil de-icing sensor)
J5Suction pipe thermistor malfunction (outdoor) — the sensor on the suction pipe (Ts) is faultyA failed suction thermistor, damaged wiring, or a connector faultTechnician work: test and replace the thermistor or repair its connection
J6Outdoor heat exchanger thermistor malfunction — the coil/de-icing sensor (Tb) on the outdoor heat exchanger is faulty (residential charts: faulty heat exchanger temperature sensor)A failed coil thermistor, damaged wiring, or a connector fault at the outdoor PCBTechnician work: test and replace the thermistor. Defrost and capacity control depend on this sensor, so heating performance suffers until it is fixed
J7Liquid pipe / receiver thermistor malfunction (outdoor) — the sensor on the liquid line (Tl; VRV charts: liquid temperature sensor after the subcooling heat exchanger) is faultyA failed liquid-line thermistor, damaged wiring, or a connector faultTechnician work: test and replace the thermistor or repair its connection
J8Liquid temperature thermistor malfunction, coil side (outdoor) — VRV charts assign J8 to the coil liquid-temperature sensor (older VRV charts: the oil equalising pipe thermistor)A failed thermistor, damaged wiring, or a connector faultTechnician work: identify the exact sensor from the model's own chart (J8's assignment varies by generation), test and replace it
J9Subcooling heat exchanger gas pipe thermistor malfunction (outdoor) — the gas-side sensor (Tsh) on the subcooling heat exchanger is faultyA failed thermistor, damaged wiring, or a connector faultTechnician work: test and replace the thermistor or repair its connection (VRV models with a subcooling heat exchanger)
JADischarge pipe pressure sensor malfunction (outdoor) — the high-side pressure sensor (Pc/S1NPH) is faultyA failed pressure sensor, or an open/short in its wiring or PCB connector (Daikin's VRV chart lists open- and short-circuit branches)Technician work: sensor circuit testing and replacement. High-pressure protection depends on this sensor on sensor-based models
JCSuction pipe pressure sensor malfunction (outdoor) — the low-side pressure sensor (Pe/S1NPL) is faultyA failed pressure sensor, or an open/short in its wiring or PCB connectorTechnician work: sensor circuit testing and replacement
L1Inverter PCB / inverter system malfunction (outdoor) — the inverter board itself has faulted (VRV chart: INV PCB abnormal)A failed inverter PCB, sometimes from heat, moisture or a surge, or a wrong inverter/control board combination after a repairLicensed technician work: inverter board diagnosis and replacement. Inverter boards store dangerous charge — never open the outdoor electrical box as an owner
L3Electrical parts heat fault (outdoor, residential splits) — the temperature inside the outdoor unit's electrical/switch box has risen too highBlocked air inlet/outlet around the outdoor unit, a failed cooling path for the electrical box, or extreme ambient heat overwhelming itOwner checks: clear obstructions around the outdoor unit and shade is not a fix — airflow is. A returning L3 needs a technician to check the box's cooling and the boards inside it
L4Inverter heatsink (radiation fin) temperature too high (outdoor) — the fin that cools the inverter power stage is overheating; Daikin also words it as an inverter cooling failureBlocked airflow over the outdoor unit, a dirty heatsink/coil, fan underperformance, or sustained maximum-load running in extreme heatOwner checks: clear the outdoor unit's air path and clean debris from the coil guard. If L4 returns with a clear air path, a technician checks the fan and the inverter's thermal contact
L5Inverter output overcurrent (outdoor) — instantaneous/DC output overcurrent from the inverter to the compressor; the drive shut down to protect itselfA compressor drawing excess current (winding fault or mechanical drag), a short in the compressor wiring, or a failing inverter power stageLicensed technician work — stop the unit. L5 is the drive protecting the compressor circuit; repeated restarts can destroy both
L8Inverter compressor overload — the electronic thermal protection tripped (Daikin's service chart: electronic thermal switch actuation; compressor motor overheating/overload)The compressor running overloaded or overheated — high pressure load, poor cooling of the compressor, or a compressor beginning to failLicensed technician work: find why the compressor is overloaded (pressure, charge, cooling) before it is run again; the thermal trip is a symptom, not the disease
L9Inverter compressor start-up fault — stall prevention: the compressor failed to start or stalled as it tried (out-of-step / faulty start-up detection)A compressor that cannot turn (mechanical lock, large pressure difference at start), a closed stop valve, compressor wiring errors, or a defective inverter PCB (Daikin's chart branches)Licensed technician work: stop valves, pressures and compressor/inverter must be checked in that order. Do not keep power-cycling a compressor that will not start
LCTransmission malfunction between the outdoor control PCB and the inverter (outdoor) — the two boards have stopped communicatingA loose or damaged interconnect between control and inverter boards, electrical noise, or a failed board on either sideTechnician work: check the board-to-board connection first, then the boards. One power reset is reasonable; a returning LC is a hardware story
P1Inverter power supply imbalance / open phase (outdoor) — the phases feeding the inverter are unbalanced or one phase is missingAn open phase, interphase voltage imbalance, a defective main-circuit capacitor or wiring, or a faulty inverter PCB reading the supply (Daikin's chart branches)Licensed electrician/HVAC technician work: supply phases and the inverter's main circuit must be measured. Do not run the unit on an unbalanced supply — it cooks compressors
P3Switch box temperature sensor malfunction (outdoor) — the thermistor inside the inverter switch box (Daikin's service chart: temperature sensor inside the switch box / inverter box thermistor) is faultyA failed box thermistor, damaged wiring, or a connector faultTechnician work: test and replace the thermistor. The box's overheat protection (the L3/L4 family) depends on honest temperature sensing
P4Inverter heatsink (radiation fin) thermistor malfunction (outdoor) — the sensor measuring the inverter fin temperature is faultyA failed fin thermistor (open/short), damaged wiring, or a connector fault at the inverter PCBTechnician work: test and replace the thermistor. Compare L4, which is the fin genuinely overheating; P4 is the sensor itself lying
PJCapacity setting malfunction (outdoor) — the outdoor unit's capacity setting is wrong: the capacity adaptor is missing/wrong, or the inverter and fan driver combination is faultyCapacity setting adaptor not installed or incorrect, capacity data error, or a mismatched inverter/control/fan-driver board fitted at repair (Daikin lists both branches)Installer/technician work: fit the correct capacity adaptor/data for the exact model and confirm the board combination, then re-run the system check
U0Refrigerant shortage (system) — the system detects abnormally low pressure / a starved refrigerant circuit; Daikin's VRV chart also ties U0 to a faulty expansion valve starving the circuitRefrigerant lost through a leak (the usual story), a closed stop valve, clogged refrigerant piping, or an expansion valve not openingLicensed refrigerant work, always: leak-test, repair the leak, evacuate and recharge by weight. Topping up without finding the leak just schedules the next U0 — and venting/leaking refrigerant is regulated in most countries
U1Reversed phase / open phase (system, three-phase models) — the power supply phases are in the wrong order or a phase is missingPhase order swapped at the supply or after electrical work, or a lost phaseLicensed electrician work: Daikin's instruction is to correct the phase order (swap two of the three supply leads) and prove all phases present. Never experiment with phase wiring as an owner
U2Power supply voltage fault (system) — drop voltage, main-circuit overvoltage, or an inverter voltage shortage / instantaneous power failure; the supply is outside what the inverter can useA sagging or surging supply, a missing phase, a failing main-circuit capacitor in the inverter, or loose power wiringIf the whole building's power is unstable, that is the first fix. A U2 on a healthy supply needs a technician to measure the supply at the unit and check the inverter's main circuit
U3System test run (check operation) not yet executed (VRV) — the commissioning check operation has never been run, so normal operation is not possibleA new or re-addressed VRV system that has not completed its initial check operation, often after installation or an outdoor PCB changeInstaller work: execute the system test run (check operation) from the outdoor unit as the installation manual directs, clear whatever it reports, and only then hand the system over
U4Transmission failure between indoor and outdoor units (system) — the indoor and outdoor units have lost communication with each otherA wiring error or break in the indoor-outdoor transmission line, a disconnected terminal, electrical noise upsetting the signal, or a failed PCB at either end (Daikin's chart branches)Owner step: one full power reset (both units off at the isolator for several minutes, back on) clears a one-off noise event — Daikin's own manuals describe U4/U5 stopping then restarting when noise subsides. A returning U4 needs the transmission wiring and boards checked by a technician
U5Transmission failure between the remote controller and the indoor unit (system) — the user interface and indoor unit are not communicatingRemote controller wiring faulty or disconnected (wired remotes), a failed remote or indoor PCB communication circuit, or strong electrical noiseCheck a wireless remote's batteries and line of sight first. Wired-remote U5 is technician work on the controller wiring and boards
U7Transmission failure between outdoor units (system, multi-outdoor VRV) — the outdoor-to-outdoor (Q1/Q2) transmission has faultedA wiring error or break in the outdoor-outdoor transmission line, a wrong connection port, or a failed outdoor PCBInstaller/technician work: check the Q1/Q2 wiring run and terminations between the outdoor units, then the boards
U8Transmission failure between main and sub remote controllers (system) — two controllers on one group are not communicating, or the sub controller has faultedMain/sub controller wiring error, a duplicated or wrong main-sub setting, or a failed sub remote controllerInstaller/technician work: prove the main/sub wiring and settings, replace the sub controller if it has failed
U9Transmission fault involving another system (system, VRV) — an indoor unit malfunction in another system on the same transmission network, or a system mismatch (wrong type of indoor units combined)A faulted indoor unit in a neighbouring system sharing the network, or incompatible indoor unit types (different refrigerant/series) combined on one systemInstaller/technician work: find the faulted unit in the other system first — U9 is often a messenger code, and the root fault is elsewhere on the network
UAImproper combination / field setting error (system) — the indoor and outdoor units are an invalid combination, too many indoor units are connected, or the system setting is wrongMismatched indoor/outdoor models or refrigerant types, connection capacity exceeded, or a wrong field setting (a classic after unit replacement or extension)Installer work: verify the combination against Daikin's combination tables and correct the field settings. UA is a design/setup fault — no part inside a healthy unit fixes it
UCCentralised control address duplication (system) — two devices on the centralised control network claim the same addressA duplicated central address set on two indoor units/controllers, usually after an addition or board changeInstaller/technician work: re-assign the duplicated central address so every device on the network is unique
UETransmission failure between the indoor unit and the centralised control device (system)Centralised-control wiring faulty, disconnected or mis-addressed, or a failed communication board at either endInstaller/technician work: check the centralised control transmission wiring and addresses
UFSystem not set / auto-address inconsistency (system, VRV) — initialisation found the transmission wiring and the equipment connected to it do not agree (Daikin publishes detailed UF sub-codes for each wrong-wiring pattern)Wrong wiring to the indoor-outdoor or outdoor-outdoor terminals, equipment connected to the wrong terminal, reversed transmission ports, or a short in the transmission wiring — almost always an installation or modification errorInstaller work: work Daikin's UF sub-code (shown with the code on VRV) to the exact wiring error, correct the wiring, then re-initialise. This code is a map, not a parts list
UHSystem malfunction — auto address inconsistency (system, VRV): the units the transmission wiring reports and the units actually powered/addressed do not matchAuto-address not completed, a unit powered down during addressing, an incorrect number of units on the line, or a refrigerant-type conflict among the indoor units (Daikin's chart branches)Installer/technician work: power every unit, let initialisation finish (Daikin allows up to about 12 minutes after power-on for addressing), and re-run auto-address if the manual directs
UJAccessory device transmission error (system) — communication with an accessory device (for example a branch selector or shut-off valve unit on newer VRV) has faultedAccessory wiring faulty or connected to the wrong terminal, or a failed accessory PCBInstaller/technician work: check the accessory's transmission wiring and terminal assignment against the installation manual
A code that is not in this table? Manufacturers add and retire codes between model years, and some displays abbreviate two-part codes. If your code is missing, note the full display exactly as shown (photograph it), check the tech sheet stored inside the machine, and search this site by the symptom — the fault family is usually identifiable from what the machine was doing when the code appeared.

How to reset / clear error codes on Daikin air conditioners

Daikin codes are condition reports, not latches to be cleared by ritual: the code clears when its condition clears. Daikin's VRV IV reference guide puts the owner-level reset plainly — depending on the level of the malfunction code, you can reset the code by pushing the ON/OFF button; if it will not reset, ask your installer. The fuller reset is a power reset at the isolator/breaker: switch the system off for several minutes (both indoor and outdoor units — on a split they are usually on one isolator), then back on and let it run; Daikin's manuals note the system does not restart instantly (a safety device holds the compressor off for about 3 minutes, and a VRV system can take up to about 12 minutes after power-on to finish its communication/addressing checks). Fault history is separate from the live code: on wired remote controllers the stored malfunction history shown in inspection (check) mode is cleared deliberately — hold the ON/OFF button for 5 seconds or more while in inspection mode, and the code flashes twice, changes to '00' (normal) and the unit number to '0' before the display returns to normal mode. Never clear history before you have written the code down, and never treat a reset as a repair: a code that returns after a clean power reset is a confirmed, present fault.

How to diagnose any Daikin air conditioner code

Work the problem in this order — and stop where refrigerant, compressors or mains wiring begin, because those are licensed work: (1) record the code exactly as displayed, including whether it came from the indoor display, the wired/wireless remote check mode, or an LED pattern on the outdoor unit — the three are different reports; (2) check the homeowner basics first: the air filter (a matted filter ices coils and imitates sensor and refrigerant faults), the condensate drain and float switch, the outdoor coil clear of leaves and debris, and both breakers fully on; (3) power-cycle once at the breaker, then run the mode the code interrupted and watch the sequence — indoor fan, outdoor fan, compressor start — because the stage that never starts names the fault family; (4) on mini-splits, retrieve the stored check code with the remote's diagnosis function before clearing anything, and write down the full code including its letter family; (5) a code that returns in the same mode is an active fault. Refrigerant charge, sealed-system and board-level work is professional work — an undercharged system re-iced after a reset is being damaged, not cured.

How Daikin's letter-family code system works — and how to read a code from the remote

Daikin organises every malfunction code as a letter plus one character, and the letter is the address of the fault. A is the indoor unit's own hardware: its PCB (A1), its drain-level system (A3), its fan motor (A6), its swing flap (A7), its expansion valve (A9) and its capacity setting (AJ), with AF and AH covering the drain/humidifier and dust-collector options. C is the indoor unit's senses — the thermistors: C4 and C5 watch the indoor coil's liquid and gas pipes, C9 reads the incoming room air, CA the discharged air, CJ the sensor inside the remote controller itself, and C1 is the one C that is not a sensor but a transmission failure between the indoor unit's main and sub PCBs. E moves outdoors to events: the outdoor PCB (E1), the high-pressure switch tripping (E3), low pressure (E4), compressor lock (E5/E6), the outdoor fan (E7) and the outdoor expansion valve (E9). F is the refrigerant circuit's temperature story — discharge temperature too high (F3), overcharge or high-pressure control (F6). H is mostly the outdoor unit's watchdogs and signals: the pressure switches themselves failing (H3/H4, as opposed to E3/E4 where a healthy switch reports genuinely bad pressure), the fan's position signal (H7) and the outdoor air thermistor (H9); residential splits add H6 (compressor position detection) and H8 (current transformer). J is the outdoor sensor shelf — thermistors J3 to J9 for discharge, suction, coil and subcooling temperatures, JA/JC for the pressure sensors, J1/J2 for the combined pressure and current sensors. L is the inverter: heatsink overheating (L4), output overcurrent (L5), compressor overload (L8) and failed start-up (L9), control-to-inverter transmission (LC). P is power and sensing around the inverter — supply imbalance (P1), the switch-box and fin thermistors (P3/P4), the outdoor capacity setting (PJ). U, finally, is the system talking to itself: refrigerant shortage (U0), supply phase and voltage (U1/U2), transmission between indoor and outdoor units (U4), between remote and indoor unit (U5), between outdoor units (U7), wrong combinations and addressing (UA/UC/UF/UH). Reading a code needs no tools beyond the remote the unit came with. On a residential wireless remote, hold TIMER CANCEL for 5 seconds and the temperature display starts flashing codes from 00; press TIMER CANCEL repeatedly to step through the list while the indoor unit beeps its verdicts — a long continuous beep marks the stored malfunction, while a short beep plus two consecutive beeps means 'not this one, keep going'. On wired and VRV controllers, the INSPECTION/TEST button opens inspection mode, which shows the code and, crucially on multi-unit systems, the number of the unit that reported it. Two habits make any code twice as useful: write down the unit number with the code, and never clear the fault history (on a wired controller, holding ON/OFF for 5 seconds inside inspection mode) before the code is recorded — the history is often the only witness an intermittent fault leaves behind. VRV adds one more layer: many system codes carry sub-codes (UF publishes a numbered list of them), and the outdoor unit's monitor mode can show the fault's location — master, slave or a named indoor unit — so on a VRV system the complete report is code, sub-code and location together.

Split, SkyAir or VRV? Scope, model variation, and which Daikin codes an owner may touch

One code system serves three rather different machines, and knowing which one you own explains most of the contradictions between Daikin code lists online. Residential split systems (Daikin's RA platform — the wall-mounted units in most homes) print a short fault-diagnosis table in the operation manual: roughly two dozen codes the remote can report, including A5 (high-pressure control or freeze-up protection) and the H6/H8 pair, which exist because a home inverter split watches its compressor's position and current directly. SkyAir — the light-commercial singles and twins under ceilings and in shops — carries a longer chart in its installation manual (the FVQ-C manual's section 12-2 runs from A1 to UJ), adding the full J-sensor shelf, the L-inverter family and the P codes. VRV, the multi-split commercial platform, carries the longest list of all, and adds what a networked system needs: E2's earth-leakage detection, U3 (check operation not yet executed), U7 for outdoor-to-outdoor transmission, U9 for faults in another system sharing the network, and detailed UF sub-codes that name the exact wiring error found at initialisation. The overlaps are real but not total: VRV IV has no A5 and no E6 because it has neither a freeze-up protector circuit of the RA type nor a standard (non-inverter) compressor, and a home split will never show U3 or U7 because it has no check operation and no second outdoor unit. So the chart in your own model's manual outranks every generic list — including this site's table, which merges the platforms and flags the platform-specific meanings where Daikin's documents give them. The owner/pro line falls where Daikin's own documents put it. Owner territory, because the manuals themselves walk you through it: reading the code with the remote's diagnosis function, cleaning the indoor filters (the honest fix behind many A5s), clearing leaves and obstructions from the outdoor unit's air path (behind many E3/L3/L4 events), checking that a condensate drain outlet is not blocked, replacing remote batteries, and one clean power reset at the isolator. Professional territory, because everything there is refrigerant, compressor or inverter: every U0 and E4 (charge and pressure), every E3 that survives an airflow clean, all of E5/E6/H6/L5/L8/L9 (compressor and its drive), E1/A1 and the L1/LC board codes, all thermistor and pressure-sensor codes in the C and J families once a reset has failed (the parts are cheap; locating and proving them is the job), and every U-family wiring or combination fault beyond the one allowed reset. The dividing question is simple: if the fix requires opening the outdoor unit or the refrigerant circuit, it is not an owner fix — it is the information you hand the technician, code and unit number included, so the first visit is the repair visit. One last scope rule follows from all of this: a code's presence in a generic internet list never proves your model can produce it, so a code your own manual does not list is a reason to re-run the remote diagnosis carefully before paying anyone to chase it.

Less common and model-specific codes

Search data shows owners also meet these codes on Daikin air conditioners: A4, A8, AA, C3, C6, C7, CC, CH, E0, F4, H0, HA, U6. They are not part of the core code list Daikin publishes for most models — several are series-specific, abbreviated display readings, or codes carried over from a sister platform — so we do not publish meanings for them rather than guess. Treat them by symptom: note what the machine was doing when the code appeared (filling, draining, heating, spinning), run one full power cycle (5 minutes off), and if the code returns, match the symptom to the closest documented family in the table above and check the tech sheet stored inside your machine for the model-specific definition.

Frequently asked questions

How do i check a daikin error code?

Daikin builds the diagnosis into the remote controller. On residential wireless remotes (the ARC433 family and its successors) Daikin's operation manual documents fault diagnosis by remote controller: point the remote at the indoor unit and hold the TIMER CANCEL button down for 5 seconds — a code indication flashes in the temperature display section, starting from '00' (normal). Then press TIMER CANCEL repeatedly: each press steps the displayed code through Daikin's list, and the indoor unit answers with beeps. A continuous long beep at a code means that code is the malfunction the unit is reporting; a short beep and two consecutive beeps mean a non-corresponding code — keep stepping. To cancel the code display, hold TIMER CANCEL down for 5 seconds again; it also cancels itself if no button is pressed for 1 minute. On wired and VRV wireless (BRC4C82-type) controllers the route is the INSPECTION/TEST button: pressing it enters inspection mode, the inspection display blinks, the operation lamp flashes and the malfunction code plus the number of the faulted unit are shown. You then step the unit number with the programming timer buttons until the unit beeps (3 short beeps = run the full procedure for that unit, 1 short beep = skip to the code steps, 1 long beep = normal state), set the first character of the code with the mode selector, step it with the timer buttons until the unit gives 2 beeps, then set the second character the same way until 1 long beep fixes the code. On VRV outdoor units a technician can also read the code in the outdoor PCB's monitor mode (BS1 MODE / BS2 SET / BS3 RETURN buttons step through first digit, second digit and fault location on the LED/7-segment display). Whichever route you use, record the full code and the unit number before resetting anything — on group and VRV systems the unit number is half the diagnosis.

Related guides

Daikin Air Conditioner hubAll Daikin error codes

Facts on this page were checked against manufacturer documentation: www.daikin.com.mt · daikinac.com · www.daikin.ch · www.manualshelf.com · www.manualshelf.com · www.manualshelf.com · mcgrp.ru · mcgrp.ru · dwt-front-dev.daikincomfort.com